Frank

Cool Boats , performance cruiser anyone ?:-)

Posh !

I agree, for offshore passages we pre-rig preventers on both sides and they are in use the majority of the time, If I go offshore again I will investigate a Boom Brake.

I guess the other aspect to being hit by the boom even if not initially fatal is it can cascade rapidly to a more critical situation as per the vessel Second Life and I think also Plastimo.

Safety equipment is over the top and too damn expensive until you need it which hopefully you never happens if you are a prudent skipper.

Gas struts on the access hatch..............Posh

I don't see why you couldn't use a DC to DC charger to recharge the house battery from the lithium

Nobody wants invasive pests but wouldn't it be cool if just for once there was a silver lining like say " Voracious Schnapper fattening up on yellow clams" or "Crayfish Population Booming on Caulerpa beds" sigh !

It was back in the 90's and I cant remember if it was a Henleys or Chatfield unit but it was attached with the usual hose and clamps. It think it had a grease cup but not the water feed. I found it leaked annoyingly from day one despite adding the water feed tube shortly thereafter and the leakage rate deteriorated with use. There is a Finnish sailor on You Tube who installed a similar arrangement during a refit on the US east coast prior to a passage to Alaska. His looked to be beautifully engineered (Blue Water Seal ?) but also leaked and If I recall he changed it out for a PSS type in

Interesting debate, I'm trying to relate it to how the rules work in aviation where generally the regulator (CAANZ) not the rule maker (Parliament) controls what is acceptable or not in terms of a standard. The standards can be designated by the Director of the CAA as "acceptable" as a means of complying with the rule. Rule changes require an act of parliament and so specific mention of a standard can be a curse for the regulator and industry alike unless it specifically omits the revision status then any changes to the standard once published are automatically the new means of compliance. I

My experience exactly and the replacement lip seal unit leaked even worse , finally solved with a sail drive

Just PM'd you his contact email, he is happy to assist

I will check with him and PM you

I think you just need to get a DC to DC charger

On the yacht we still use FLA to power all systems but when due for replacement I will consider going to LiFpo after gaining confidence and knowledge with the van installation.

If you want to ask a few questions I can put you in touch with a friend who owns one and has been offshore in it several times

Reading this thread was the first time I'd heard of lithium-titanium-oxide (LTO) batteries. The interweb says they charge much faster than other lithium ion types however the energy density is low and the cost is high, I'm curious then as to why they would be considered an option ?

Seen that movie before CD, no plan survives contact with the enemy

My local marine electrician wryly commented that most batteries don't die from natural causes but rather they are murdered by the owners

Below is a summary comparison of the different battery types, LiFePo seems to score heavily in all categories. Our LiFePo has 330 Ah and we run an 800W microwave , 1200 W kettle and 1000 W induction top plus the usual sundry items like fans, lights etc. We have 440 W of Solar and a DC to DC charger, as far as I can tell the Solar has been sufficient so far but it might be different in the SI in Autumn. The array is wired in series as I was told the Higher Voltage provides better charging when the sun is low. We experimented one day by using all the appliances like there was no tomorrow and ke

Our land yacht has LA for the start battery and 330 AH LifePo for the house battery, Its a fantastic but expensive set up with the beating heart of it being the battery which cost north of 6K. Battery quality like most things is variable but if you go for a quality product it makes sense to protect the asset by following the OEM's advice on equipping and configuring the system. I will watch the video later but i suspect it does not follow accepted practice and that could have expensive consequences.

I can give you some detail on how I do it but really its best to watch a few videos and practice with some scrap material, it doesn't have to be Carbon cloth. I pull the Vacuum for the duration of the initial cure usually about 12 hours at Room Temp you can regulate the degree of vacuum with a bleed valve, the material supplier can advise of the Vacuum pressure required. All the bagging materials are available at NZ Fibreglass supplies and wont be expensive for a small component like a dinghy Rudder .

If you source the cloth from Gurit I am sure they would spec the layup, a few years back High Modulus Fabrics did that for mine.You can make your own vacuum unit by converting an old fridge compressor, then watch a few videos to see how its done, otherwise hire one. https://www.google.com/search?q=old+fridge+compressor+for+vacuum+bagging&oq=old+fridge+compressor+for+vacuum+bagging+&aqs=chrome..69i57.14076j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:0dc9204e,vid:SxvH3EtxN-I,st:0

According to Sailboat data.com a Farr 1220 displaces just over 6 Tonnes as Matt noted a Whiting 40 will be similar so your friends should be well under 10 Tonnes even with all the extras and fluids etc. https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/whiting-36/ https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/farr-1220/

More rescues today https://www.1news.co.nz/2023/11/25/helicopter-crew-rescue-men-from-yacht-off-new-plymouth-coast/