Frank

There is some weird S*^t going on out there !

This Interview is excellent IMO, puts it all in perspective.

Pull the other one

Thanks, I think use of the oxygen bleach will probably be a preventative strategy, perhaps more potent than vinegar. In regard to accretion It seems that the uric acid alters the PH which somehow encourages the minerals/salts to crystalize from the stagnant sea water, perhaps this is why a fresh water purge at the end of the voyage helps.

Fabulous work, too Nice to put in the water.

Thanks for all the feedback, the system is back together now and in future I intend to schedule a yearly clean with Citric or Phosphoric Acid. Also thinking of flushing some dilute solution through at the end of each trip (5KG bag of Acid Powder is $40 on trade me, should last a while)

We recently went through a somewhat disgusting de-blocking of the Head discharge plumbing with the usual accretion of "salts" being the culprit. So we are Keen to prevent or slow the buildup as we dont want to do it again ever ! (Ok that might be a slightly unrealistic) There is an interesting article in the link below that cast doubt on the use of vinegar as a solution but suggests the use of a product called Sew Clean which is made by the same company that markets Barnacle Buster. So two questions 1. Whats the feedback on using vinegar as a preventative to slow or stop the bu

"I have found hard bouyancy jackets too bulky and so don't wear them when I should." I think that is perhaps the real issue.

I have an Ex Mullet Boat Mast Circa 1930's , its in excellent condition and set up for a Gaff Rig, its 9.8M long and 100 to 110 mm Dia. Can anyone suggest a good home for it where it might be re-purposed as a spar or at least milled/recycled for boat building ? Its Old growth tight grained stuff presumably ex US and it would be a tragedy for it to be cut up for firewood. Its free.

My brother in Law is donky deep in selling a 10.5 Metre birth at Pine Harbour, we have had a few chats and lets just say its an interesting dynamic between the market, the berth owner and the Marina Company . PM me if you want his contact e-mail so you can compare notes.

Probably shouldnt hijack this topic but a thread on stupid mistakes made on boats would be a laugh I can certainly own up to a few captain Dumb Dumb moments.

For what it is worth ethanol might be useful as a flushing/cleaning agent, it mixes with water and Diesel and in small amounts wont affect combustion any pure alcohol will do but not the dyed stuff for obvious reasons.

There is a good pros n cons analysis at this link it is centred on catamarans but most of the observations also apply to monohulls https://www.multihullcompany.com/saildrives-or-straight-shafts-which-is-best-for-me/#:~:text=Straight shafts require precision engine,more vibration than sail drives. The authors conclusion is "Getting hung up on shafts or sail drives as a major purchasing concern is quite unwarranted. If having a shaft is something you are so convinced you must have, bear in mind you will live with all the advantages as well as the disadvantages noted above. More i

With such a short shaft and vibration issues I would be wary about putting a rigid bearing anywhere in the stern tube I think it will only transmit more vibration. I faced this issue with a previous boat, my take on it was 1. Engine mounts were too hard but a softer mount would have allowed even more engine movement making it worse. 2. Two bladed Folding prop was always out of balance, horrible thing. 3. Shaft flex coupling was too rigid. 4. Shallow draft hull meant I had to angle the shaft at 13 deg to the horizontal to get (barely) adequate blade/hull tip clearance (it

Same here

Converted the Carpenter 29 from shaft drive to a Volvo SD a few years back and it was absolutely the best thing we ever did. We have had no issues with leaks of any sort, its much smoother and as for the Drag I dont think there is anything in it either way. The thrust line is horizontal so its more efficient and there is no assymetric loading on the prop, installation was a doddle. At the time (5 yrs ago) we were quoted $16,800 inc GST for the complete unit sans propellor (available immediately) .A new 20 Hp Beta engine (marinised Kubota) at that time was $13,000 + freight and and lead time w

Pretty Much what others have said and sailing characteristics will need analysis with such a significant sail plan/rig change. (Balance and Fwd Buoyancy comes to mind.) There is a junk rigged Raven 26 in my local mooring field and it looks fine although I have never seen it sailed. As a front load before contacting the Naval Architect see if you can get a copy of the lines drawing, in my experience its usually the first thing they ask for. My wifes uncle and aunt did a 7 year circumnavigation in a Junk Rigged 31 footer , went up to Japan , Russia, the Aleutians, Alaska etc, wrote a book and a

Have converted to Roller Furling so I'm selling Item 1 Doyles No 3 Dacron Jib, Full length top batten Luff 9.3 M Foot 3.1 M L/P 2.85M Has had moderate use, never raced, has excellent shape. Piston Hanks on Luff. Item 2 Windward sails Cruising laminate Tri-Radial In Good condition, never raced , excellent shape, some stains Piston hanks on Luff. Luff 9.68 M Foot 5.0M Leech 9.32m PM me if intetested, they are on Trademe as well chrs

There is a sistership to Titus Canby at Shelly Park, called Isapingo, the owner is looking to get a bigger boat.

I haven't been to a boat show for years as they are just a massive yawn with Powerboats predominating and maybe a few production yachts. I only missed this Wooden boat show as I was sailing but I hope there is another !

If the Bronze rods are Aluminium Bronze then they should be as good as new , probably true for Phosphor Bronze as well, also I have heard of Hard Drawn Copper being used occasionally . For SS bolts I would want to see the condition at the hull/keel junction to ensure there is no crevice corrosion or pitting. The installation sounds like its substantially over engineered which was often the case for boats of that era, a good thing of course

Its not a perfect system but I'm told by my American friends the alternatives are far worse, ie you have a very litigious society and insurance gets way more expensive.

This whole thing about Space/time being warped by gravity completely does my head in, I accept it but I simply cant visualise or grasp it. Quote from the interweb " Time measures speed, while gravity does all the work. When a clock is in a stronger field of gravity, the atoms in the clock feel the pressure of more mass. The force of gravity slows down the frequency of atoms, a clock slows down, and the time on a clock has time dilation.

Talk to Kerry at the Marina shop (Insurance broker) kerry@themarinashop.com

LOL, I had exactly that block/System on the Carpenter and had the same failure after 20+ years of solid service. I repaired it by drilling out the pins, making a new strap and bolting it back together, looked a bit agricultural but gave me another five years. Now it has been replaced with near new system from a Young 88, All that said I recommend you get new blocks, forget about welding unless you can put an external doubler on it.