Frank

Something else to be aware of is that the condition of the sails, a sailmaker will give you an opinion. I had a mate who was close to buying a boat but the engine oil analysis showed a high moisture content and I think sodium (salt) so that might be worth doing as well.

Something else to be aware of is that the condition of the sails, a sailmaker will give you an opinion. I had a mate who was close to buying a boat but the engine oil analysis showed a high moisture content and I think sodium (salt) so that might be worth doing as well.

Many years back a jetski went thru the side of a moored Towson 32 at Little bucks, made a very large hole, as I recall the rider was not badly injured. The actual owner then scarpered with jet ski in tow before the feds arrived. If you think we have problems in Florida they take them on the freeway ! https://www.orlandoweekly.com/Blogs/archives/2018/09/19/heres-a-florida-man-driving-a-street-legal-jet-ski-on-the-highway

Check this out its more boat on jet Ski than boat on boat but the AC 75 sounds like a jet engine

For the tech geeks amongst you this analysis of the issues for team INEOS is fascinating, Ken Reads insights are quire thought provoking. Hopefully I'm not breaching any protocols here. https://www.sail-world.com/news/234275/Rigs-and-Remedies-How-can-INEOS-Team-UK-improve

Good advice from Sabre and just as important is knowing your boat, for me I have found this takes two to three seasons of regular cruising. By that I mean the way it sails together with all of its features and systems. Often you get to know a system best by fixing it when it breaks or malfunctions but you don't want to be doing that in a blow on a lee shore ! I have cruised the gulf and Northland coast for many years but I'm always a little jealous of new converts since you have the promise of discovering all those places anew for the first time ! take care.

There is an NZ 41 or 42 on the tamaki river near the PYBC, I chatted to the owner briefly the other night, she is in fairly good condition by the look of her. He said the design was the basis of the Jim Young 43

Essentially then if there is any risk of the raw water system being submerged have an anti siphon loop (ASL) between the pump and the heat exchanger as well as an exhaust riser. The ASL prevents a siphon effect creating undesirable raw water flow when sufficiently heeled. The Exhaust riser prevents the engine being flooded should water fill the exhaust from either issue ie (a) A siphon effect as mentioned above or, (b) Elevated pressure from very high sailing speeds forcing water circulation, which is presumably only a worry for fast multihulls.

Yep, I can see how that would work

I heard recently of an issue with SD units on Leopard Catamarans, I thought some might find it interesting. The story goes that in certain conditions water pressure impinging on the Sail Drive raw water intake can cause flow through the system and into the exhaust without the engine running. There is a blog on this in the cruising forums somewhere and one person even disassembled the plumbing and witnessed it while sailing. Apparently If the raw water plumbing does not have an anti siphon loop the exhaust can fill with water and flood the engine, if the boat is sufficiently heeled, has anyone

The symptoms that caused it to be removed were interesting, basically the seal on the input shaft leaks causing fuel to contaminate the engine oil. Eventually the diesel rich mix gets to the point where it will support combustion then the engine revs madly independent of the throttle and the fuel cutoff wont stop it. To add to the alarm it is attended by billowing clouds of white exhaust, I'd never heard of such a thing nor experienced it until now. In any case its a known issue with the CAV pumps on the Perkins but hopefully we have not done any damage, I stopped it by throwing it into gear

I sailed an NS14 on Botany Bay many years back, they are a great boat, I heard at the time they were somehow related to the Javelin design.

Worked on removing the leaking injector pump from our Perkins 4108. In true british engineering fashion and after 6 hrs of cursing the last bolt requires a 7/32 ball ended allen key bit on a 600 mm extension shaft with a universal joint in the middle. Gotta love old english diesel engines....not.

If it were me I would look for high thrust as per Waikores comment, you may also get better fuel economy.

Go for it ! if you have basic mech skills its no problem, take photos of everything but you should be able to find a manual on line. Mine is not the same model but its 27 years old and just had its second strip and rebuild so its ready for another decade. This time around I replaced the pressed steel cable mounting plate with sheet lexan from and old window.

Another one bites the dust ! https://www.sail-world.com/news/233574/Starboard-foil-and-casing-damage-for-ARKEA-PAPREC

It must be a real head scratcher to model the load cases for these boats, there would be so many variables to account for. I would imagine the instantaneous loads from slamming into waves could at times be horrendous, like hitting the boat with an outsized sledge hammer. Its amazing they last the distance at all, its a real tribute to the designers engineering skills. Many years ago a colleague related a story whereby Boeing sales reps were touring the world visiting prospective customers for the 787 dreamliner. Since there was a lot of suspicion about an all carbon fibre airframe they

Yep, agree with that, anecdotally I heard of a 34 footer where the instructions were " Replace the engine and send me the bill" 50K later !

I agree 2flit, years ago I had experience designing repairs for airframes and based on that I'm confident the mast would not be significantly weakened. I measured up last night and the attaching screws are 4mm at 70mm spacing there is probably 80 to 100 to holes to drill and tap, so I'm more put off by the amount of work involved than any structural concerns. Also it wont do much for the cosmetics unless you're a colander The sailmaker was concerned that a free standing luff would move around too much and generate chafe on the stowed mainsail particularly if you a carried the rig f

These modern AC boats must present a fascinating head game for the team modelling the fluid dynamics. I'm guessing the hull is in some sort of ground effect and there must be an endless list of hydro and aerodynamic factors to optimize at 50 knot +.

Good words there.

The budget for a re-engine on my Carpenter 29 was approx 16K by doing the work myself, 20 to 22 K if I replaced the Sail drive leg as well.

Some good possibilities there thanks Carpe Diem, I will discuss these with the sailmaker. BP sorry I haven't explained the situation well but basically the track needs to be moved further away from the mainsail luff groove. The track extends from below the gooseneck almost to the second spreaders and is fixed with screws at 150 mm intervals hence re-positioning it involves a lot of new holes, the mast height is 51 ft. We want to retrofit batten cars with external rollers but a test fit shows the rollers will foul tri sail track. Chrs

Probably about as well as the 40 yr old Saab 8hp "Auxillary"

I have a situation where I need to move the tri sail luff track on the mast, doing so will involve adding yet more fastener holes which I would prefer to avoid. I have heard of a tri sail arrangement where the luff is free standing using spectra as a luff rope. The sail is then hoisted on the main halyard and secured somehow at the foot. Does anyone have experience with this or has seen one set up ?any advice appreciated, I will check with the local sail maker as well. chrs