2flit

We have a Rocna 20kg and a Manson Supreme 35lb. (also an FX37) The Supreme has been mostly used in Coral sands where it would dig in very fast and quickly and seemed to do well in veering conditions. It did not handle debris in coral sand well. We wanted a heavier weight anchor and all that was available in Tahiti was the Rocna, we have found this anchor to do very poorly when reversed in soft mud, otherwise it has done reasonably well in sandy/silt, sandy/mud, and medium mud. We do occasionally need to reset the Rocna when backing down on it and it fails our reverse thrust (we always t

After a raucous sail up the west coast with over 6 meter seas and 45 knots of wind, boat speeds above 16 kn hitting 20kn, tired after logging our first ever 300+ mile day....We decided to haul-out in Whangarei at Oceania Marine. They had the very best rate for the haul-out and also if we paid them to do all the anti-fouling... so they were almost the most competitive priced of all the yards that had a travel lift for our beam. (Their Travel lift is 10+ meters wide so easily accommodated our 8.06 meter beam.) In the last four year of world cruising with two major refits and three bottom jo

It's interesting that your fuel cut-off solenoid is before the regulator. This means that the gas control valve that is actuated by the solenoid is handling the full pressure of the liquid propane tank. The installations that I have seen look like the ones in the attached diagram where the fuel shut-off solenoid comes after the pressure regulator and the valve is handling only 11-12 WCI. I'd double check the pressure rating for the gas cut-off valve? Some/many of the gas solenoid valves are only designed for the low pressure after the regulator. The Burnsco valve uses about 1 amp, while

Thanks for the hardstand directory... hauling a tri is a bit trickier than most boats; Marsden can not haul us. Whangarei... Oceania Marine is looking into it.... we are also curious about the yard's reputation/customer satisfaction since we want them to do the prep and paint.

We are looking to have a yard scrape and spray new bottom paint on a Farrier F39 trimaran. We don't know the area and looking for advice. We are in Opua now and will be sailing to the south island in early January. We had JJ haul us on his trailer last year but this point loaded the hull and cracked an integrated water tank that we had to repair. I think either a "SeaLift"; Crane, or a wide travel lift is best for our hulls. I don't want to do the work this year and looking for the yard to do a good job.

Here is the link to that bit of Northland Regional Paperwork: http://northland.infocouncil.biz/Open/2020/12/BABWP_20201202_AGN_2905_AT.PDF?fbclid=IwAR0R-Zf2GyQP1BF8GXvbx-MLW-Dg7Ggf1uCeX973MfwUfmMc_XjWcSGUjD4 See Item 4.2 "Marine Pest Interregional Plan"

There is always this you can try this tide calculator. You can chose a specific location using the map, and a time interval to suit. https://tides.niwa.co.nz/ . (It was very accurate for us during lockdown when we were anchored out in about 1 meter water in Waipiro Bay in the BOI.)

Do you like this route if going the reverse direction (BOI to>> Nelson) around early January?

Anyone up to speed on what this will mean? Sounds like it might involve mandatory bottom painting and clean/power wash on a regular schedule? Also a monetary assessment of some sort coming down the pike for "exacerbators" (the term they use to describe boat owners). It appears to be under development but we've seen signs go up about it? I found this document which refers to it: http://northland.infocouncil.biz/Open/2020/12/BABWP_20201202_AGN_2905_AT.PDF?fbclid=IwAR0R-Zf2GyQP1BF8GXvbx-MLW-Dg7Ggf1uCeX973MfwUfmMc_XjWcSGUjD4

I am also seeing this attachment for the code sail at the end of the prod being used. The second picture is a close-up of the furler used at the end of the prod. It's interesting that he is not having an issue with the drum assembly trying to twist so far that it wraps the continuous furl line around it, I wonder why this works for some but not others. (He has three furlers, the other two are on a 2:1 and a 3:1 tack downhaul/retrieval line so they would never see twisting with these furlers)

Nice! faster than windspeed while cruising! That's awesome, what design do you have?

I like this company allot. Have used their unit for three years now. https://www.ozefridge.com/packages

Have you experienced twist as an issue? Twist that goes so far as to where the furler line gets carried around the body of the furling drum as the drum rotates. There appear to be boats that have spinnaker top down furlers on a single line? Thanks for the advice on the Slid Sheave part # SSH4500, looks far better than that shackle!

WE just got a warrantee replacement of our EPIRB and OceanSignal could/was willing to program it for whatever country we chose... New Zealand, Canada, or the USA. BY the way... the ocean signal batteries are user replaceable on the E100G, and the new EPIRB1-Pro that ours was replaced with, They cost more originally but have 10-year/48Hr battery life, and $238 cost replacement, at leas this is what we found. (We are a Canadian registry boat in New Zealand)

We are setting up a new FX4500 furler with the Fast Thimble/swivel. We are committed to using a furler drum retrieval line since going out to the end of the 2+ meter prod to unhook things just is not in the cards anymore for us. I have had conflicting advice on this with regards to setting up the retrieval system. Seems that there are two schools of thought 1) Set it up on a single line thru a pully or low friction ring, This is easiest but some say that the furler drum will want to twist that single point supported line and this results in the drum twisting with the result being that the

The Hugo Boss boat looks like it is in some serious trouble... heard about 'structural issues' a few hours ago and not the bow height is now minus (-) 1.49 meters! Here is an Image from the Alex Thompson Racing Site from 9:04pm... Computer image but causes some concern, eh?

Have you spoken with a spar maker about this topic? Our 16.8m mast (Mast section is 124 x 204 x 4 mm) is very-very lightly built and has 5/16" fasteners every 10cm and it's been no problem in over three years of hard sailing up to 68 knot winds off-shore and many more years of costal sailing. My gut tells me that If your fasteners are around 12mm or less... I would not worry about the extra holes at 15cm spacing. The mast track you are adding will increase the strength of the mast somewhat and it sounds like the extrusion has a built-in luff grove already stiffening the back. So

Just to add to this conversation... 13.8 v as a 'float voltage' is quite a bit too high for a pure DC float voltage (as opposed to an AC battery charge sourced charge). Unless it is very cold out you would never want to see 13.8 as a float voltage on most Lead Acid (LA) batteries. The target for Float voltage would be much better at 13.6 volts. I think his question about what readings to expect on his "BMS" have been well answered for LA, except I'm curious because when someone says BMS (Battery Management System) they are customarily referring to a BMS on a Lithium Bank; what chemistry

Interesting because just yesterday the boat 5-Kiwi's Afloat posted just the opposite on Facebook? Said that they were now allowed to do their quarantine on the boat and do it even if the passage time was under the old 12-day rule... guess time will tell the truth

I listed to a video post he made on FB yesterday where he said that he was 'nodding-off' occasionally (sounded like very brief periods of time where he just fall asleep and suddenly re-awaken) but the sleep tracker was not recording these periods as "sleep" because his pulse rate was still around/above 90 bpm. I think his max heart rate was above 170 during sail changes.... the guy is amazing

We've used a 2:1 for about four years. First on a square top that needed to have the top batten removed and now on a pseudo-square top that does not require the batten removal step. Both sails have/had about 20% roach. The new headboard has a cutout for the 2:1 block, such that the block fits in this cutout 'window'. This helps when you have a nearly full-hoist main as you describe. After about 15,000 offshore miles on the second main, we don't see any problem with the sail 'hinging' at the metal headboard (plates on both sides bolted/rivited together. The headboard is on an Antal car system

Hugo Boss is doing 15 kn at the moment in 15kn wind while the leaders are in 14kn of wind doing 11 kn, Here is how it looks (see pic) <the dotted red lines are the Rhumb line course; Hugo Boss is the larger black/pink boat icon in the western group>

The other option would be a dual battery solar charge control. A very good brand name is Morningstar https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/ however, the amperage is more that you need and the cost is high. There are much less expensive ones on Amazon, but I have no experience with the quality of that gear.

This information is from John Hopkins University and is in line with all the peer reviewed studies that I have read. It is important that we realize the extremely limited validity of the PCR test that are used throughout New Zealand In the report on the findings published May 13 in the journal Annals of Internal Medicine, the researchers found that the probability of a false negative result decreases from 100% on Day 1 of being infected to 67% on Day 4. The false negative rate decreased to 20% on Day 8 (three days after a person begins experiencing symptoms). They also found that on the d

See my comments in your text above....