marinheiro

maybe you should do the research, the problem of brittle skin fittings has been due to using high zinc content fittings (to save money), this will help you https://www.boatsurveyor.net/cathodic-protection-in-yachts/the-dangers-of-cw617n-european-brass-valves-skin-fittings-and-hose-tails/ as for electrolysis in wood, this is due to "over zincing", refer to Chris Mc Mullen article I previously referenced

you should look at a bronze swing check valve (not a ball check), such as this example https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/check-valves/5103750/ GMS and AES will have something similar

Lagoon and Robertson and Caine tried this a dozen years ago, most installations were subsequently converted back to conventional drives. There was also one of those big Nordhavn fitted with 3 (I vaguely recall) diesels and 2 electric drives, they finished up tearing all that out . Nigel Calder spent a large amount of Euros testing all the diesel electric options and similarly concluded for a long distance cruising yacht the "least inefficient" was a direct coupled diesel engine. BK already has one AC generator fitted

I would say due to this https://www.euronews.com/2021/02/05/france-floods-pm-jean-castex-to-visit-afflicted-southwest-after-heavy-rain

The Lombardini's are light because they are a marinised car engine (I think probably Fiat origin) with features you do not want on a boat ie Aluminium head/OHC/Rubber timing belt. I had a similar situation with my previous engine, a marinised VW Golf diesel - was glad to see the back of it. If you discard Lombardini then of course you have the 3 basic alternatives, Yanmar, Volvo and the Kubota derivatives - Nanni and Beta. Volvo do not appear to have a product in the power range you need (jump straight from 28 to 55hp) The Kubota based engines are very good, except being indire

you are aware registration for Jetski's (actually Kawasaki own that name) is already required in the Auckland region https://at.govt.nz/boating-marine/jetskis-personal-watercraft/registering-a-jetski-or-personal-watercraft/

sitting out in Port Fitzroy at present enjoying the glorious weather and quiet bays, Bowling Alley Bay yesterday was superb. Very few Rivitimos and their like around, in fact in many bays yachts are in the majority and mostly smaller ones , <40'. No jetskis to be seen, just the odd local in their fizzboats.

I think finding an aftermarket one will be a challenge. Have you asked Lighthouse Marine (local agents) for the cost of a replacement cover? I went thru the same exercise with my Furuno sailing instruments....

Not sure where that comes from. ASNZS 3004.2 requires equipotential bonding, as does the US ABYC E11. The ISO standard is equivocal but then they are the same crowd who ok'd high zinc content skin fittings. From a reality perspective any boat with an engine has several different types of metals all in contact with each other via an electrolyte called seawater so the least noble is going to corrode. If a boat is wired for AC then you must have a grounding system. If not, I would have all the engine components, strut and shaft interconnected and protected by an anode or 2. Saildrives have t

If you have a close look at your solenoid you will most likely find it is made by Bosch or one of the other big OEM suppliers. Should be able to find one that does not have a "green" price.

A couple of comments/corrections 1. Registration varies from country to country, eg typically US yachts sail internationally with only state registration, as getting federal registration is a bureaucratic nightmare. It is not just for tax reasons that many US owned vessels are registered in the Caymans or BVI 2. Registration and import tax are not typically linked. You can buy an AWB in Europe, register it as an Australian or NZ vessel and sail round the world many times without paying any tax as long as you do not exceed time limits in the countries you visit. Whilst most countries

from the report the ferry was going from Russell to Opua and the yacht from Opua to Paihia, that would indicate the ferry had right of way. Noted the comment about mechanical damage on the ferry, there could have been a failure that contributed to the collision or the skipper might have given her the gumboot to try to avoid the collision.....

Under Part B you have to display the registration number NZ XXXX on the outside of the hull. Part A requires you have the vessel's name and port of registry on the stern and the ON permanently fixed to the vessel's main beam. Part A is not just for commercial vessels, also anyone with a private vessel willing to shell out the initial payment, currently $2,205 for an existing vessel under 24 m (for some reason a new build is cheaper). Part A is lifetime as long as the vessel remains under NZ ownership Fortunately the previous owners of my yacht registered her Part A so no renewal f

you should note that the above is for Australian USL surveyed vessels, NZ has different laws and regulations.

just guessing - looks a bit like one of Spencer's later designs or maybe a Senior Reacher (the bean series)

Saddle (J) mounts a relatively rare for automotive small frame alternators, more likely found on a basic large frame alternator you could look at some thing like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/LEECE-NEVILLE-OEM-GENUINE-160-AMPS-ALTERNATOR-8LHA2159VB-J-MOUNT/163322489311?hash=item2606c769df:g:T28AAOSw2gNbyOUY Prestolite are the OEM supplier for Balmar, pricing is much more reasonable, I guess the difference is not being painted. Your Hitachi alternator has virtually no work to do, so it will have a long life. The Balmar feeding the Lithium batteries on the other hand will be slogg

Maybe you should look at one of these https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Butane-Iron-Even-Smooth/dp/B012TREVSS

from the Powertech Manual for these inverters Pwoertech Inverter manual.pdf As you can see the rated current for the 1500W is 160 amps (even more than my previous guesstimate). For safety the installation must match the max potential current draw for the selected model, not what you might think you are going to use. Also I do not consider those clamping screws to be a safe connection for this level of current, it needs to be studs to which you can connect cables with lug terminals.

I am surprised your 750 watt inverter is not popping fuses, you cannot be putting much load on it. Cig lighter sockets should not be used for more than 20 amp draw, whereas that 750 wat unit could draw up 60+ amps. A 1500watt inverter will definitely need to be hard wired and should have 50mm2 cables and a 150 amp fuse. This will draw ~125amps at full output.

interesting to read the inspectors undertake their duties on behalf of MNZ, not YNZ(who just appoint them) YNZ is not a government body, hence they have no authority to prosecute

My Naiad has the same fitting, very difficult to source it. Try talking to Neil at Seafarer, he might be able to point you in the right direction

The world is divided into IALA Regions A & B where Region B covers a whole lot more area than just USA https://www.marineinsight.com/marine-navigation/iala-buoyage-system-for-mariners-types-of-marks/#:~:text=For the sake of maintaining,Japan%2C Korea and the Philippines. Why split the world - no idea, maybe its like driving on the left vs driving on the right? I understand the Cardinal system came about because no one could agree which side red and green buoys should be placed in the English Channel.

the manual for my Suzuki 2.5 says transport on handle side down only and has this warning I suggest placing your motor on a stand (in my case a piece of 6 x 2 in the Workmate's jaws), pull the plugs and turn it over a few times to make sure there is no oil in the cylinders. Then while you are at it drain/suck the old engine oil out and add new oil

sitting in Moores Bay,Bon Accord waiting to depart for Gt Barrier -will go tomorrow morning. Never seen Bon Accord so empty and almost all the anchored boats here are (older Kiwi, only 1 AWB) yachts, not a Riviera or Maritimo in sight Also here Toroa

there were then the big sisters at 46', Totolo for Don Winstone and an unamed centre cockpit version that went to USA. There is a 42 footer at Westpark that maybe a sistership to Roulette 2 Then there was Jipcho, 41' which was used as the plug for the Young 43 centre cockpit (I guess there must have been a temporary extension to develop the Y43's transom). All very similar in design concept