marinheiro

It does not look like there are too many launch options remaining. Phil used to have a Ranger 35 as well but that has gone. There also used to be another Ranger (Straits Ranger) and a Rainbow/Warwick 36 (Big Fun) for bareboat but neither come up in searches. I guess with the boats getting older and the IRD and MNZ changing the rules the owners decided too hard.

try Phil Wilson, he has a 36' Pelin Challenger out of Gulf Harbour https://www.gulfharbourcharters.co.nz/Launch++Sian.html Not bareboat but John Menzies on Barcarolle is a very genial host for more options see www.charterguide.co.nz

I need to have my new compass swung and a deviation card prepared. Dave Schaefer from Bayswater can certainly do it but a bit of trip to Sandspit, is there anyone closer?

Wal, suggest fit filters these to your down pipes, they will stop more than 95% of the debris and get your tank(s) cleaned out. https://www.rainline.co.nz/shop/filter/category=775/#category=775 Then consider whether you want to fit a first flush diverter as well

I see looking at the tide tables next Thursday and Friday will have high tides of 3.7m and low of 0.2m at Westhaven. I guess some will get to see how good their marina dredging is

all you could ever want to know about Clippers https://www.facebook.com/Mason-Marine-Clippers-160543284101217/ this is the Clipper seen in Nelson https://www.facebook.com/MasonClipper they are "old school", solid and heavy (2.7t) and like their petrol. A mint restored Clipper will fetch $70-80k another option is a Pelin Empress https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/motorboats/auction-1929189883.htm?rsqid=62c50a9dbe84454897b045b7eb9f5f58 quite similar in appearance to the Clipper, no doubt due to Frank Pelin being Tony Mason's foreman before going out on his own

Solid ice rather than cubes. Make your own using ice cream containers or similar

Looks to be a copy of the Spectra Newport watermaker Popular in Europe, not sure if there would be much service support elsewhere This link has some useful comments http://www.diycatamaran.com/diy-Schenker_30-watermaker-rebuild-install.HTML Good to see they use a standard membrane. Make sure the wáter inlet is as close to the centreline as possible. Have a close look at the feed pump, these are often the problem área The Schenker name is perhaps a bit misleading, people will think it is from the fatherland whereas it is actually Italian.

There are a lot more cats available in Australia, check out www.yachthub.com Couple of boats worth looking at are the Seawind 1200(a massaged Grainger design) and the Fusion 40, noting that the latter is typically closer to $400k.

there was water available at Te Hue Bay 2 years ago, limit was 100 litres/day/boat. There is supposed to be a water pipe somewhere on the eastern side of Oke Bay.

Fuses on the Start (and other high load batteries) can be covered using one of these (if space is tight) https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A I have them on my Start and Winch battery with 250amp fuses House battery is better with a Class T fuse

Allan Hooper, (green shirt in the photo) owns the mould. Suggest checking with Roger Hill re the plans, he was close to Des in the later years. You will often find Allan at the NZTBS on Tuesdays http://nztbs.org.nz/contacts/

go to the guys who make it http://www.rubbermark.co.nz/product_list.php?cmd=prodList&grpCat=Fendering&grpCode=079

Not jets, but I have a 14m launcb parked beside me with twin surface drives, which leave a pretty similar wake to jets.

Re the Osmosis, if this was repaired by a professional company they would have provided a 5 yr guarantee. Ask for receipts. If it was a home job and not correctly dried out I would avoid the yacht

Design is a virtual copy of Young 88 by Albert Sedlmayer. Cheap, condition is everything - sails, rig, paint, motor as to what will need money spent

Having been away all winter I have some black mould spots appearing on my teak decking. Any suggestions for magic solutions or techniques for removal?

The Rule 8000 is set up so you can run either or both pumps, you can see a butterfly flap in the outlet to prevent backflow. The evaluator is identical except it is wired so both pumps are always running. I don't think there is a 12V yacht size trash pump around.

All the pump manufacturers play the same game - name plate ratings are based on zero head and 13.6V battery voltage I bought the layflat hose off Trademe, there are some regular listings there. You can see the current discharge curve for a 220ahr battery here (last page) https://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T105_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf 30 amps looks to be around 6 hrs (~350 min). If you were in a situation where pumping is needed, best to start the engine immediately to push the battery voltage up

I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/Rule-Evacuator-8000-High-Capacity-Submersible/dp/B0084A9K40 it is two 4000 pumps put together. Outlet is 3". I have a layflat hose for this, not ideal, this is better https://www.amazon.com/Camco-39631-Heavy-Duty-Sewer-Hose/dp/B000BP7M8W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540290110&sr=8-3&keywords=3%22+sewer+hose

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCCBhAt30Ko ouch - going to give the insurance guys something to do this week

+1 for Barry, he planed my boat a few years ago. Highly recommended

Pro's of being on the mast - slightly better performance at longer ranges - less likelihood of "nuking" the crew with magnetron based units Cons - much harder to work on - weight/windage

to add to IT's list (I am sure he has most of them) allen keys (metric and imperial) Screw drivers or bits for any weird heads Drill press for the electric drill Crescent big enough for largest fastener on board (and maybe a large Stilson) Rigid Offset Hex Pipe Wrench 4' length of scaffold tube (good for repelling borders as well) stubby socket ratchet couple of spanners and/or sockets that can grip on (ahem) rounded off nuts Wire Strippers a small wood handsaw a workbench

Interesting fridge comparison between dedicated 12V and 230V thru an inverter I was surprised that the conversion losses thru the inverter did not significantly affect overall power consumption the 2 important points if you run a fridge thru an inverter 1. Its stand by power draw 2. Its ability to start the fridge compressor - in rush current at startup is typically 4-6 x the normal operating current for a second or so. Most inerters have some surge capacity but you need to check this. ps the inverter needs to be pure sine wave, modified sine wave will struggle to run the mot