CarpeDiem

You need to know the pump max pressure. Flow rate decreases due to the resistance of gravity and friction. To maintain flow rate, as resistance increases, the system pressure needs to increase... But what are you wanting to know? Knowing the max head height of a pump is kinda moot and only academic, cause at max head height the flow rate will be zero and the system is kind of useless. And if you were to reduce head height by a few mm, then the flow might be 1ml/hour - again a useless system.

You could unscrew that valve and take it on a journey looking for a rubber hose that jams in it tightly... Then it will be a matter of finding the appropriate coupling to join it to your existing red pump hose...

It just has a round rubber insert that goes into the valve. Overtime they hardened and became ineffective as Fish says. The valve should have a cap attached. That thread isn't for the pump. You could probably find a suitable rubber tube with an OD of 1" which would do the same. Adapter for a hose https://shop.inflatableboatparts.com/product/achilles-rubber-mold-air-valve-adapter-gray/ Valve: https://shop.inflatableboatparts.com/product/achilles-and-dynous-replacement-valve-achilles-part-c342gy/

I would definitely use Bed-It for that kind of track. https://shop.marinehowto.com/products/bed-it-tape Also I would countersink all the deck holes so that the Bed-It can seal around the bolts. Have you seen this instruction article? https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

I have one of these. Which is attached to one of these. No idea what either are called. The cooling thingo is 4yrs old. Fridge is getting converted to electric... I hate throwing stuff out and equally hate storing anything I am unlikely to ever use... Name your price...

Have them both come through a single block. Which would mean having one run from port to starboard (or vice versa) then tie them together so the bow and stern are the same height. And attach that tie point to your winch. Probably needs a picture... You'll need to redirect the line to the winch so it doesn't get an overrun.... But that's the general gist...

The boat has not budged in more than four days now, but a spokesman for Auckland's harbourmaster said as the vessel was not moving and was not leaking oil, it was not causing any issues. https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/luxury-motor-yacht-remains-beached-in-auckland-harbour/DQGVOVJRKBPR6TG5ZNWQVDHMFM/

https://nz.manta5.com/

If a cruiser or a merchant ship spends 14days at sea Covid symptom free and has the appropriate evidence to support that claim then no further isolation is required. But a warship is just so different on so many levels... They have been in state of lockdown since June. They exceeded the 14 day requirement which is set for merchant ships and small craft. They can actually prove it and will be believed. A sovereign ship is legally sovereign territory - these folks have legally been in New Zealand since they boarded, the Covid orders wouldn't even apply to them. And many many mo

A picture is in order.... So long as the exhaust riser is above the exhaust system at all heel/pitch angles the raw water cannot get back into the exhaust outlet. Some boats have a valve on the exhaust. Closing that could cause the water to come back up the exhaust riser.

Gravity stops the water going up the riser. The water is pushed out the exhaust pipe. Because the exhaust riser is above the exhaust and inlet system.

An exhaust riser also solves it. Are your shutoffs wired to be closed when power is present? I would be worried about these closing unintentionally due to a power failure.

A quite large disclaimer exists on that customs web page, The information is a general guide only. The legislation is what matters. The COVID-19 Public Health Response (Isolation and Quarantine) Order 2020 section 10.1 - states that you must spend 14 days after your start time. So the question now becomes when was your start time? Because you arrived by sea, your start time in quarantine is defined in Section 23 of the COVID-19 Public Health Response (Maritime Border) Order (No 2) Section 19(3) is the one that defines the start time in your case. TLDR; if a health protecti

https://www.youtube.com/c/americascup TVNZ coverage starts at 3pm on Channel 1. With a lead in at 2pm.

For our Volvopenta D1-30 it was in documented in multiple places through the installation manual. We ended up making a custom stainless exhaust riser to reduce the siphoning risk because we couldn't get the anti-siphon loop high enough due to the cockpit floor. Most photos/videos I have seen of that Engine have an anti-siphon loop in the intake.

Whangarei or Marsden Cove? Hardstand Directory

The rule is that if you arrive on a recreational small craft, within 12 days of your last port of call, (which for you was Minerva Reef), then you're required to be transferred to a MIQ facility for the minimum period of 14 days. These are the current rules for recreational vessels as I've understood them. So I am not seeing any government overreach in what you've explained. Don't be confused with the rules for commercial ships, which don't have a 12 day rule and must have an approved Covid management plan that includes a ships Doctor.

How did this work out?

We unfortunately need to get a new pole after loosing our old one in yesterday's Gold Cup race. Why do people put their spinnaker poles in bags when not in use? Is this for sun protection in lieu of painting a carbon fibre pole? The pole we lost was made by C-Tech and came painted gloss white. The painting made up 1/3rd of the purchase price, so I was considering getting this one unpainted to save some coin. Or am I missing the fact that a new pole would require some kind of finish anyway? Thanks

The only true benefit is a weight/space saving. Every battery has a special/optimal charging regime so this is kind of moot. It's just that your very used to your current charging regime and don't even see it as a regime any more. Lots of factors to consider. In a nutshell, if you have enough power and charging to meet your needs then why change? If you want to add more power reserves then lithium might be a cost effective way to do this over the long term. There are lots of benefits, but if they are worth it to you is always going to be a personal choice. For us it's a

If they are new, then they will be LiFeYPO4 - lithium iron yttrium phosphate - a very safe battery from a reputable manufacturer.

No, different chemistry. The hoverboards and the Samsung batteries, (and the batteries in the fatal battery glider story, mentioned above), were Lithium Polymer batteries or more correctly lithium-ion polymer (abbreviated as LIP, LiPo, Li-poly, lithium-poly and otherways) - the hoverboard chemistry was specifically LiCoO2 - Samsung was probably the same chemistry as are most small electronics. Lithium Polymer is, (generally), no good on boat cause the nominal voltage is too high (3.6v - 3.9v depending on chemistry) and all of our electronics is designed to run at 12/24/48v and LiPo doesn

Yes, it would be a case of that. At the end of the day if you want to use a Marina you have to play by the Marinas rules. And that might mean producing some documentation. They also require proof of insurance and an eWof (if you want to plug in). They probably have other rules about the showers and the toilets too... But as I said, it doesn't have to be done professionally, if you want to do it yourself just follow the rules and be prepared to be held accountable if you don't follow the rules. As evidence, the person cleaning the boat needs to write a declaration that the boat ha

Timely. I just went through this yesterday for Opua marina for BOI race week. In summer we have a private clean of the hull with scuba every 2-3 weeks - so no receipt - in winter we use the floating dock. Our Antifoul will be 6.5 months old when we get to Opua... The Marinas follow a self-imposed 6/1 rule - anitfoul must be less than 6 months old (with invoice) or you must have documented proof of a clean within 1 month. (This can simply be a receipt from a haulout facility, a commercial diver). The law is a bit different - the Management plan says - you must be antifouled within

Perhaps portable 12volt unit. Engle do a great unit with lockdown feet that can be secured in place easily and quickly. They also do insulated bags to save battery on those longer races. Our engine driven fridge has also died - the cost to replace it is astronomical cause of the woodwork - but if I ever did replace it properly - I would be with an Ozefridge and custom cabinet. So I am also seriously considering the less expensive Chainsaw/Portable approach.