MartinRF

Planned to rig the boat today but things did not according to plan. I use the boom, main sheet and main halyard to raise the mast. The tail of the halyard broke. No one hurt, nothing else broken as far I know. For the first time since I built this rig I am in the situation that here is neither halyard nor pilot line where the main halyard should be. When I built this rig I was working in a workshop with an air compressor so I simply blew pilot lines fitted out with simple drag devices down the mast tube. Since the mast is kind of horizontal gravitation will not be of much help and co

A home made version of this? https://marine.wichard.com/rubrique-Captive_pin-0201110100000000-ME.html Any photo? /Martin

This is very good reading of Slocum's book: https://librivox.org/sailing-alone-around-the-world-by-joshua-slocum/ /Martin

Thanks /Martin

Reminds me of the loss of Drum's keel during the Fastnet Race in 1985. /Martin

Here in the Northern hemisphere it is time for maintenance. One of the items on my list is to re-sleeve the main halyard. It has an 8 mm Dyneema core and the sleeve is busted where it sits in the halyard clutch. The current sleeve extends 1.5 m above the clutch for reasons that do not apply any longer. Hence the question: How much sleeve is needed above the clutch? /Martin

Does this help even if it is not the article you are looking for? http://www.boat-links.com/foils.html Added 11 h later: Why do you need flat-sided foils? Class rule? Beating my own drum (yes, about dagger boards but still true for rudder blades): http://hem.bredband.net/b262106/pages/daggers/index.html /Martin

Kelp harvesting? /Martin

Only going dead down-wind so far. /Martin

Yes, the Baltic Sea is known for not destroying old wrecks. The same goes for the Black Sea I understand which means there is a real possibility of finding ancient Greek mercant ships, Bysantine vessels... If you ever visit Stockholm this museum is a mandatory thing on yout to-do list: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en /Martin

Depends on what you think /Martin

Buthyl rubber sealant has work fine for me. Applied in 1986, still no leaks in 2019. I don't know what brand name but this looks right: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?LH_CAds=&_ex_kw=&_fpos=&_fspt=1&_mPrRngCbx=1&_nkw=butyl+rubber+sealant&_sacat=&_sadis=&_sop=12&_udhi=&_udlo=&_fosrp=1 This stuff neither cures nor dries out. It is still soft and sticky. /Martin

I hope the outer diamonds are fixed to the spreader tips. It is not unusual to overlook this important detail. It does not replace an inner forestay but is important anyway. The actual staying does not look overdone to me but there is a lot of other things adding clutter and drag. Lazyjacks, halyards etc, some of which will be out of the way when sailing. /Martin

Somewhat related: Many years of marine biology research resulted in finding a substance that 'tells' barnacles "not here" without harming them (it is claimed). Now this substance is used in at least two brands of antifouling paint. The Danes have just started marketing their paint to the pleassure boating market -- at least here in Sweden. The substance they use is marketed by this company by the name Selektope: https://selektope.com/ /Martin

Well, there is always that thing called fire... Happened to Swedish Seacart 30 some years ago and swimming for the shore wasn't an option. I don't remember what saved the crew but it was not a pleasant experience. /Martin

That's a looker for sure /Martin

So to sum up: No good. ? Myself thinks: * Why only 5 m BOA (I fly a hull in 10 knots of wind with me on the windward side)? * Will that centre beam really take the fore-stay load with low enough deflection? * Low, inverted bow profile is very 'modern' but also very impractical. * Surprisingly high weight estimate for being found in sales material. Maybe honest * That centre beam is designed with no intention to use it for sealing the foot of the sails. A missed opportunity. /Martin (living in Sweden so buying a 8.5 is not in the books and besides, I am still pretty happy with

Tony Grainger: https://www.graingerdesigns.net/cats/livewire-28/ Thoughts? /Martin

Must have been discontinued decades ago. Mine is 30+, maybe 40 years old and it is broken so don't ask me to send it. /Martin

The interior looks positively palatial to me. /Martin

Interesting, Brett Burvill's older brother Hayden won a regatta I helped arrange in Sweden in 1990. I believe Brett was one of the very first people to experiment with foils on Moths. Who is building Tornados these days? /Martin

Thanks, I enjoyed it despite my French being less than minimal. /Martin

Photos of T9 interiors make me believe the main beam is for supporting the mast only as it does not penetrate the hulls fully. If this is the case and you have a 'floating' dolphin striker there are no bending loads on the main beam, only compression. The attachemnt points of the dolphin striker strap would be the only high-load spots. As you may have seen on my web we re-engineered this on our Spyders. The mid beam may be for secondary loads only, like carrying the aft end of the motor pod. It depends on how it is attached to the hulls. If so it will only see low loads. This leaves wi

Background to my questions: * A complete seal -- inside and out -- is best. Epoxy is pretty good moisture barrier in my experience. * Epoxy does not offer much protection from UV and it is vulnerabel itself. In my experience the wood below the epoxy degrades quicker than the epoxy and eventually mini-cracks deveop in the epoxy barrier when the wood-epoxy bond is gon. Hence painted on all exposed surface is recommended -- a recommendation I have not followed myself and the clear finished areas are the ones that have generated most maintenace work. Clear finish on the inside is a goo

Unless the Isomat NG-37 is strong enough on its own. Do you have the construction drawings or can someone else inform us on the dimensions of original front beam? /Martin