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Hempels Olympic. It was one sprayed coat of 20ltrs. This time will be two rolled coats at 25ltrs. I want to put extra around the waterline area and high turbulence areas. That was were the heaviest growth was. Although in saying that, I was greatly surprised how clean she actually was for 3yrs. Just that furry beard type weed stuff. No actual kelp. The odd small bunch of mussels which were where some paint had actually come off at the bottom of the Keel and around some of the steel underwater fittings that had no antifoul left on them. A few small barnacles here and there. Interestingly I have usually always had blue antifoul applied. Last time I applied Black due to the only colour I could get hold of at the time. All the Black had pretty much eroded away and the Hull was mostly Blue again. So the eroding worked really well and controlled/even all over. Blue is going back on this time.

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Warpaint works really well in gisborne. Hard ablative which is nice as can be given a good scrub without colourig the whole harbour. I like the way the hard ablative stays on as seems to me less polution. Having to sand it off is not a problem with a good dust extraction system attached to a festool sander. 2 years now and still going well. Better the paint ends up in the bag rather than the ocean.

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Ablative has to erode for it to work. Many don't quite understand this. Especially when they see slime build up on the Hull only months after it was painted and then think their paint is no good. Ablative/Eroding coatings work by the surface washing away to expose fresh paint and thus biocide and copper. For a cruising boat, I would rather the coating be a little softer and wear away keeping the Hull clean than to have to scrub the thing. The trick is to have the paint wear in a controlled manner.

By the way BBay, I looked at War paint @ $43/ltr, but the Hempels was available at just under $38/ltr. I saved $500 compared against Altex No5.

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Your old girl needs a lot of paint. I thought ten litres for mine was a lot :) Yeh thats a significant saving Wheels. Last time i bought mine off trademe for $200 for ten litres. The warpaint works well if the yacht is careened and then lightly sanded to reveal a fresh surface. I like giving her a scrub before a long sail but its hard yakka! I tried an ablative type before the warpaint and found, like you mentioned, growth which needed to be scrubbed and I scrubbed right through it in a year.

We need someone to invent little suckers that move about the hull scrubbing constantly, like pool cleaners, one on each side. Then we would not need bottom paint! Underwater whipper sniper!

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Done and Dusted. All Antifouled. Only one problem, the new Antifoul paint is making the White topsides look shaby :roll: There's always something.

Anyway, we had the Hull's second coat done in 1.5hrs. I loved the way this Hempels covered with a Roller. The one and only other time we rolled on Antifoul was when we first purchased the Boat. It was so hard to coat the Paint on, that I said never again. We have always had it sprayed ever since. But in the future, I may just roll this stuff. Rolling also means not having to mask the Hull. Just some masking tape around the waterline.

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Altex 5, mainly coz that was what was on before. But the stuff Wheels used sounds interesting.

 

The ablative types had barely been introduced when I sold the last boat so this is new territory for me. I'm used to a hard paint that you scrub and it lasts a couple of years. Also for the first time in my life I am paying the yard to do the job. Just didn't make sense to take the time off to do it while I am still working, I'm sick of using that nasty sh*t paint and maybe I'm just getting old.

 

On a positive note they were doing a promotional video from a helicopter and filmed us coming out of the water so I'm looking forward to that.

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Ablatives or Eroding paints have been around the longest. In fact in the early days after Tin, we had a choice of just a simple Ablative(copper coat) and a Hard non copper for Alloy Hulls and Sterndrives, both made by International. We also had hard Boot toppings that I think were still Tin based for a couple of years after the Tin paints were phased out. Then the Boot toppings went as well.

 

Hempels will go over No5 and for that matter, pretty much any ablative will go over another ablative and Ablatives will go over all hard anti-fouls.

In saying that though, I don't think there is a huge difference in performance between No5 and Hempels Olympic. In fact, I don't think there is a huge difference between any Ablative make. They all work the same way, they need water flow over the Hull to keep clean and the key is to make sure you have a good Film thickness applied when painted on.

There is only one Self Polishing on the market, that is Micron 66. But it is easily twice the price and will only give you 12mths. That is what it is designed to last for. Self polishing is the only Antifoul that keeps clean when the boat is stationary like in a Marina.

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Here is a really interesting read. I did not realise just how far back the idea of a "leaching" Antifoul coating went.

 

17th century: In 1625 William Beale was the first to file a patent for a paint composition containing iron powder, copper and cement. In 1670, Philip Howard and Frances Watson patented a tar, resin and beeswax paint.

 

18th century: William Murdock patented a varnish mixed with iron sulphide and zinc powder, using arsenic as antifoulant in 1791.

 

19th century: By 1870, more than 300 antifouling patents had been registered. Then as now, the basic principle of the majority of antifouling paints is to use biocide(s) to deter the settlement of fouling organisms through a leaching mechanism.

 

1854: James McInnes patented the first practical composition to come into widespread general use. It used copper sulphate as the biocide in a metallic soap composition, which was applied hot over a quick-drying priming paint of rosin varnish and iron oxide pigment. This was soon followed by a similar product known as 'Italian Moravian' which was used well into the 20th century.

 

1863: James Tarr and Augustus Wonson were awarded a US patent for antifouling paint using copper oxide and tar.

 

1881: Holzapfels Antifouling Compositions were introduced. The Holzapfel brothers were the Founding Fathers of International Coatings Ltd.

 

1885: Zuisho Hotta was given the first Japanese patent for an antifouling paint made of lacquer, powdered iron, red lead, persimmon tannin and other ingredients.

 

1906: The US Navy began to manufacture its own antifouling coatings and tested shellac and 'hot plastic paints'.

 

1926: The US Navy developed a hot plastic paint using coal tar or rosin as binder and copper or mercuric oxides as toxins. This was followed, later, by 'cold plastic paints' which were easier to apply.

 

Late 1940s onwards: Major changes in paint technology resulted from a wide range of new industrial chemicals and the introduction of new surface preparation and prefabrication methods.

 

1960s: Contact leaching antifoulings are introduced, designed to increase antifouling lifetimes by increasing the biocide content.

 

1974: International introduces Intersmooth® SPC1, the first Self Polishing Copolymer (SPC) antifouling.

 

1987: The first TBT Free Controlled Depletion Polymer (CDP) polishing antifoulings are introduced globally.

 

1994: Introduction of Interspeed®340, a controlled depletion polymer (CDP) antifouling suitable for use at Newbuilding or Maintenance & Repair.

 

1996: Intersleek®425, the first commercially available biocide free foul release technology for fast craft introduced.

 

1996: Introduction of Intersmooth®360 SPC, specifically designed for coastal vessels for use at Maintenance & Repair, and Intersmooth®365 SPC, for Newbuilding: high performance, self polishing copolymer (SPC) antifouling systems with patented copper acrylate technology.

 

1997: Introduction of Intersmooth®460/5 SPC, a high performance, self polishing copolymer (SPC) antifouling system with patented copper acrylate technology.

 

1999: The first foul release system for Deep Sea Scheduled Ships. Revolutionary low surface energy coating technology controls fouling without the use of biocides.

 

2000: The first Linkcoat, Intersleek®717 introduced, allowing direct conversion of biocidal SPC antifoulings to foul release systems.

 

2002: International introduces Interswift 655®, the first self polishing antifouling system blending SPC and CDP technologies.

 

2007: The next generation foul release coating, Intersleek®900 is introduced. Based on fluoropolymer technology, Intersleek®900, is exceptionally smooth with very low levels of average hull roughness. This, combined with excellent resistance to fouling, means that all vessels can benefit from foul release technology.

 

2008: International introduces Intersmooth®7460/7465HS SPC, the highest solids, pure SPC antifouling in the market.

 

2013: Foul release coating technology evolves with the introduction of Intersleek®1100SR, the first micro fouling-focused fluoropolymer based slime release technology specifically designed to tackle the impact of slime, allowing ship owners and operators to maintain performance throughout the full docking cycle for all commercial vessels.

 

2013: The predictability of linear polishing antifoulings is accomplished with the introduction of Intercept®8000 LPP. A brand new biocidal antifouling featuring patented Lubyon® polymer technology. Specifically designed for the deep sea market, it enables ship owners and operators to plan and budget effectively throughout the docking cycle, for in-service periods of up to 90 months.

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There is only one Self Polishing on the market, that is Micron 66. But it is easily twice the price and will only give you 12mths. That is what it is designed to last for. Self polishing is the only Antifoul that keeps clean when the boat is stationary like in a Marina.

 

66 has been the gift that keeps on giving for me.

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Our mooring has quite a bit of current, they tell me that will help keep it clean, but I also worry it won't last as long??????????

The current wouldn't be that strong in there would it Squid? But yes, a good current is the same as sailing. And also because you do 9kts everywhere, it is going to wear just that little bit faster.

The Hempels Olympic is sold as a 3yr antifoul overseas, but sold in NZ as a 2yr because of all those factors of current and speed at which certain growth occurs down here in NZ. Plus it tends to be that the Boat owners down here expect their Hull to remain dead clean for the time specified. Where as a certain amount of growth is going to start building toward the end of the coatings life.

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After anti fouling Mercenary a few weeks ago when it sold, i decided to Antifoul the new boat, and get it all looking mint too!!

So a weekend of sanding, priming and spraying antifoul, Cut and polishing the top sides.

Mercenary always had International Ultra antifoul and i found it awesome, but the new boat had Altex number 5. We went with the same over it, it didnt spray as easily, but seeing as it lasted 2 years last time after being rolled we'll we will see how it goes after being airless sprayed by me!

 

now thanks to the team at Boatspray in Halfmoon bay - The prop has been re-prop-speeded. After 2 years the old prop speed was still hanging in which is pretty amazing. it was worn through in places, but i thought it would be well gone! - I can only echo Smithy's comments elsewhere on teh forums about the service the boys at Boatspray give! - I rang this morning knowing i was pushing my luck, gave them an 8 hour window when it needed doing smack in the middle of their busy season and they squeezed it in! - (Not saying they would be able to do that for everyone though!) - But if you need work done go and see Simon and the guys, they really do a great job.

Boat.jpg

Propspeed.jpg

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Wondered why my wood and plastic boat has rust than rot or dodgy glass issues. Seems the interior was held in by steel panel pins. I can say while many may regard 930's as lightweight (has a little squeeze out while laughing so hard at that suggestion) build boats, they aren't. If the hull is the only thing taking any loads and that hasn't moved in 30 years she ain't of the flimsy construction. May have been light by the standards of the day but in todays world she's a tank.

 

It will be interesting to see how the production/ semi-production boats build today are at the age of 30.

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