ballystick

Despite all the sewage regulations, people live aboard vessels at the Sulphur Point (not so well supported) and Bridge Marina has a larger number, they have sewage pump out facilities on site. Many others live aboard in town reach (inside harbour bridge), by Bridge Marina and Pilot Bay. Many of those anchor only and don't have moorings. A guy came sailing with me lived on their boat (2 adults 3 children) and stayed at either Pilot Bay or by Bridge Marina, he reckoned he dumped his sewage well offshore twice a week or used Bridge Marinas facilities. Another mooring area is Omokoroa and a small

The mooring blocks would have been removed from Okahu Bay? It looks to be an amazing bay to moor in for Auckland visits.

Fridgetech have a slimline 16 litre hot water cylinderhttps://www.fridgetech.co.nz/collections/isotemp-water-heaters/products/slim-square-16

I have one that is combined in the Vulcan 9 chartplotter, it has been good on the General except for one time when entering Tauranga Harbour it started steering back and forth. I tried adjusting the settings manually for a bit and used the learning function before resetting the Autopilot. Since then it has been great, the Vulcan 9 is a great unit with many features and only a bit more expensive than the standalone A/P unit itself. Possibly it has too many options for everything that can be a bit confusing.

Here is a really good multiuse yacht for sale https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/boats-marine/yachts/centreboard/listing/3966554143?bof=0JHcr51f

Simple fishfinders should still be OK, they will give you the depth and the bottom contour line gives a good indication of the depth change trend in a visual graphic form, an ascending line will indicate shallowing which is often better than numbers changing rapidly. I find it very useful in Tauranga harbour which is full of sandbanks. If your hull is solid glass you can glue a plastic (Sistema) container to the inside of the hull ahead of the centreboard, fill with glycol or oil and place the transducer in it. The transducer can be machined down to reduce it's size to fit. Attached is a cheap

At the field days they had solid rod fibreglass of various sizes that made the frame supports for crop tunnels that may suit. Could be these...https://polynet.co.nz/pages/fibreglass-rods

I have that converter for my B&G Vulcan with a Precision 9 compass, the converter works well with the Nexus NMEA0183 depth, speed, wind and angles but one time I managed to get the Nexus compass info through for the AP and the slow reaction time was too much to hold a smooth course. Waypoints might be OK

My B&G autopilot with NAC3 suddenly started steering all over the place for no apparent reason. I tried adjusting rudder gain etc. but no real improvement. Finally I found the autopilot reset and that worked perfectly and still is!?

The Topper Omega is for sale if anyone is interested, outboatd and road trailer available too. Moving up

What was the boats name?

The Topper Omega is a great boat - furling jib, gennaker, can be powered by outboard, can be sailed single handed. It is built of tough material and probably is a modern Sunburst equivalent. My son has one and it's a great solution for a sailing/maritime family https://toppersailboats.com/product/topaz-omega/

I have found a small leak by my holding tank and it is from the Y valve outlet pipes, I removed the valve assembly (yum) to find the two outlet pipes weren't secured to the valve body and no sign of O rings or seals and no securing clamps?? Does anyone know where they can be purchased from in NZ

The NY party at the Mercs has been toned down lately and is more of a casual affair. As for anchoring there who is going to police the restrictions. In the Mercs it is a washing of the anchoring equipment requirement and not taking of seaweed, shellfish, fish etc.

Island Time would be a suitable person to assist. I don't think it would be easy to pull over on a halyard even if it had a lifting keel. Rigging companies often fit windgear for owners, try a local firm from the hardstand area there or use the main halyard and bosun's chair with an assistant to get to the top of the mast.

Thanks IT, whoops!!!

How about this person http://www.efrontier.co.nz/estore/index.php?currency=NZD I think he out SW Auckland, hard to understand when you talk to him

Nick Davenport from BBYC has a mooring available https://www.facebook.com/groups/1490621321180183/?hoisted_section_header_type=recently_seen&multi_permalinks=3315599508682346

End for end is my first step, still looks to be marginal when main is eased but it should help

I have just noticed a small fraying cover on the rope which looks to be more significant in the future so I was looking at replacing it before it all goes to custard at just the wrong moment

I have 12 mm mainsheet rope (Farr 38), should I replace it with the Dyneema type or something else?

TX valve exit pipe

One of mine broke after 27 years of work, I replaced it with a new unit which was quite straight forward and not too expensive amazingly. As part of the exercise I got an assistant to operate the mechanism while I watched and found the alignment was quite poor as it was placing twisting loads on the cable. That alignment was the cause of the breakage probably, by just bending and resetting some brackets and levers it was quickly remedied and probably a worthwhile exercise whether you replace them or not. I would replace them if you spot any similar problem.

Countdown?

Looks like you could fabricate a thin sheet of plastic about the size of an ice cream container lid without edges, fold it around the lamp and slide it upwards pushing the spring upwards allowing one side of the lamp to drop below the surrounding housing and then the lamp can be removed by tilting