Frank

Great website that !

I think the modern hondas are air cooled if you are worried about water cooling.

I looked into this type of repair for a volvo part and even purchased the rods at $36 each !. They have a very high nickle content hence the $ On you tube the technique seems tricky with pre heating and cleanliness critical even in experienced hands there was a risk of cracking as the Cast iron cooled. Brazing seems less technique dependant with good results I recall my fathers bench vise soldiered on for many years after being over tightened and snapping in two.

Gold

Likewise my 40 year old MD7B and its raw water cooled !

What he said ! If its reliable , has sufficient power and is a sweet runner, just maintain it well and keep the money, if it aint broke dont fix it. If you are desperate for a new engine try and get one that, does not involve a propellor change, a bigger shaft dia or shifting the exhaust position. None of these are show stoppers but they can add substantial extra cost, there are probably other avoidance factors.

If you go the Lanoline route you might find this a better option, it seems to set semi-hard and waxy, might hang on better. https://www.crc.co.nz/Soft-Seal/6895-b7b7b944-0c6e-46ae-ba41-d069b501063a/

Tried Lanolin over the years, I agree its a waste of time, I have also used Engineers marking ink (two coats) and found it to be somewhat effective, still not a patch on Propspeed obviously but if you are on a budget ? I have tried antifoul, it never seemed to work. https://www.google.com/search?q=engineers++ink&sxsrf=ACYBGNTl1XYis4O76SCY7134dtIvSm6iSg:1573319876920&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj22oaj0d3lAhUVbisKHXxKDYUQ_AUIEigB&biw=1366&bih=625#imgrc=HXPls6jMpCT1KM:

I have noticed the same thing re Barnacles on a boat in the Tamaki and another at Cocklebay, the usual small pimple sized fellas just fall off. but the larger ones about the size of a fingernail are just diabolical this year. They grow roots through the AF, aggregating like sheet concrete to any Rubber, Metal, paint or Composite surface, maybe the answer is to ask the bank manager for a mortgage and Prop Speed the entire hull I hope it is not an new type .

I see another old salt of Kiwi Yachting has passed on at 88.

The whole canal boating thing sounds cool, is there a risk you just go from pub to pub ?

Thanks, looks like it is predominately in the W sector for the next few days.

For you experienced cruisers (Matt , BP ? ) what have you found to be a good wind direction when returning from Noumea ? Chrs

That's for parking it on the sandbank so you can clean the bottom, handy feature.

Brushing the hardener probably wont help, it is not like the catalyst for polyester, try a strong solvent like acetone or paint thinners and scrub with a coarse steelo pad like the SS ones. I have also had luck with painting a coat of interprotect over the gummy surface and then scraping or sanding that off after it set good luck !

I wouldn't have thought a yachts auxillary would have enough power to tear a hole in the hull, maybe a bent shaft.

Food, sleep and a bucket ?..................Luxury !

Set Phasers to stun and beam me up Scotty.

That would make a big difference, sounds like a scaled up lotus 10.2 or Wright 10, should be a nice all-rounder .

If it is the Wright Oceans 11 then I think the 1220 would be significantly quicker

There is a gentleman in our club who has done what wheels said , the boat was a 70's vintage Spencer design. It was semi abandoned and had not been hauled for many years. The blistering was extensive and the blisters large he ground them out then waited until they stopped weeping. That took a long time I can't recollect exactly but is was many months, maybe a year. Then they were filled with pure epoxy glue (West System) and from there the usual paint process etc.it seems to have been successful with no new blisters in the intervening 4 yrs and he was adamant he had done many boats this wa

Interesting ! so that completely rules out the mooring, for comparison my Carpenter 29 at Shelly Park has only ever had two wheels and it has never moved in 25 years. I wonder if successive lift and surveys over the years have seen it incorrectly positioned at some point. It is hard to see how anything else could move it, unless the previous owner allowed a heavier boat to borrow the mooring or somebody parked on it while it was unoccupied. The other possibility is the the HM records for the GPS position are wrong, here's hoping it can be resolved to your satisfaction !

I still have an old Seven Seas marine pressurized alcohol stove in the Carpenter, its been in use for 25 years and was secondhand when we purchased it. There are a few tips n tricks but overall it has been very reliable and cheap to run. I purchase a 20 litre drum of un-dyed meths from TMG in east tamaki about once every three seasons and it costs about $80. The dyed product will clog the burners slowly or at least that is my experience. The flame certainly does not seem to be as hot as gas but you get by and there does not seem to be any moisture issues. Other advantages othe

Adding to all the points above is your vessel bigger and heavier or than the previous boat ? I say this because for it to drift there must have been insufficient weight for your boat, moorings should never drift if configured correctly for the boat. The contractor should be able to comment on that as they keep records of what they survey. That is assuming that the drift did not partly occur with the previous vessel.

I thought an update might be of interest, so today I fitted the assembly and ran the engine at about 2200 revs for 20 min, albeit not under load. I measured a max temp of 70 deg C upstream of the water injection point and about 55 deg just after the injection point. The temp at the manifold end was a bit less so presumably the thermal mass of the cast iron manifold was a factor and the exhaust hose was barely warm. The true test I suppose will be an extended run under load but so far it looks promising and there doesn't seem to be any steep temperature gradients.