marinheiro

you could try having a play with this and comparing various locations. https://tides.niwa.co.nz/map need to use the Search function for North Cape or Cape Reinga

It will be permanent berth holders, and probably casual rentals of those berths when the berth is vacant, at the berth owner's discretion

SCAME fittings are the "default" option in NZ https://www.firstflex.co.nz/product-category/scame-plugs-connectors/ these are designed to be in the weather, both for IP rating and plastic type, but better if you can locate it in a locker if possible. You should buy an IP67 rated inlet.

The Python drive only helps for alignment issues. To go belt drive a new gearbox is required with a top lay shaft with bearings at each end. The propshaft will need to terminate in a bearing that can accommodate both thrust and sideways loadings Gear boxes are not designed to take the sideways loadings present in this type of installation

Wiggins are another wholesale supplier, otherwise try your friendly local auto upholsterer, or one of the local boat builders who would use it eg Lloyd Stephenson/Allan Tongs/Scott Lane

it will only be in the order of 5-10 amps

Big Bill "spreader of grease" Falconer is a Yanmar agent/service guy who mainly works around Westhaven. Did the new install on my boat and many others. Has/had a half share in the Stewart 34 Princess

the trick is use the boom (or spinnaker pole)as a compression strut. First, check the gooseneck is solidly fixed and (after removing mainsail and disconnecting boom vang)will allow the boom to pivot to whatever height you need to have a straight drop from its end down the hatch (suggest using both topping lift and main halyard for security). Assuming all good connect your lifting device (i prefer a chain block or come-along for better control rather than just a block and tackle) to boom end, lift the motor out, then once clear you can lower and swing the boom to offload the engine. W

http://www.marinebiosecurity.co.nz/downloads/4741190/in-water+cleaning.pdf sounds like he needs to take it out of the marina to a quiet bay to do the job. We went thru this nonsense at Sandspit for a while but now we can dive on boats in the marina.

that is a japanese gearbox normally fitted to Yanmars, it would bolt up to the bell housing whereas you have a remote mounted vee drive.

This was locally made (they also used to make stern drives) but any trace of the company would be long gone. Has it actually been opened up for inspection? I would expect it is fairly simple inside just some bearings, gears and most likely dog clutches for shifting. The bearings and gears would be easy enough to replace, the dog clutches might be a bit more of a challenge.

I don't think Truekit are made in NZ, lots of references to NZ designed on the web site but silent on where they are manufactured. What did they say on your visit? If you want NZ designed and built, and not too heavy inflatable, have a look at Neil Curtling's Seafarers, made at Dairy Flat https://www.seafarerinflatables.co.nz/index.php

Have you checked what your haul out location will allow in the way of blasting - lots of OH & S issues. Some may allow soda blasting but garnet grit blasting is a challenge, for the latter you will probably have to go to a commercial slip

Stick to the hardwoods, teak or iroko. If Kauri is exposed to fresh water it can rot. i had an expensive bill to prove it

speaking of regulatory stuff, I see Keith Manch (ex cop), who made a mess of Maritime NZ is now director and chief executive of Civil Aggravation, whilst the new CE of MNZ is an ex RAF pilot(https://www.maritimenz.govt.nz/about/people/chief-executive.asp), all of which makes perfect sense if you live on another planet....

A professionally built 11m pleasure launch with a medium level of finish and nothing fancy in the propulsion department will cost around $800k. For this Coastguard boat you would add cost to build to survey big engines and the jet units huge electronics inventory all the other fittings/toys Coastguard deem essential- eg if they have fancy sprung seats those can be $10k a pop the ambulance bay stuff (I understand a fully kitted St Johns ambulance goes for circa $300k and that is just a tricked out delivery van) Not saying it is justified, just where the spend

If you want machined profiles Mitchells are very good https://mitchellsjoinery.co.nz/

does look like some glue failure in places...

a reasonable Lotus 10.6 will go for around $90-100k. Would be very easy to spend more than that to put Rite Off back together, especially if you have to find a new keel. Also a lot of work to rebuild the keel structure.

might be an idea while it is off to take to the local autoleccy for an overhaul

Agree about retaining heat, but the lagging does not form an airtight seal around the pipe. Corrosion occurs on the interior of an exhaust with the principal issue for SS pipes being acid formation attacking the welds. Regular grade 300 series SS should not be used in dry exhaust applications, at least not near the exhaust manifold, the exhaust gas temp circa 600deg is a critical temp for these grades as they undergo a phase change around 550 deg C with rapid loss of strength. Carbon steels are better or if the sky is the limit a suitable Inconel grade. By the way anyone with an old

actually it does not improve operation. In a normally aspirated engine all the action has already happened before the exhaust, in the case of a turbo charged motor whilst heat from the exhaust is good to drive the the turbo, it is bad for the turbo bearings and the oil system(the bearings live a hellish life) and the objective is to keep the charge air as cool as possible, there's a real compromise here to deal with - that's why you will see most turbo marine diesels (certainly the larger ones) with water cooled turbos and air after/intercoolers. Keeping the exhaust warm does help reduce

It will be some sort of high temperature insulating blanket eg https://www.bradfordinsulation.co.nz/commercial-and-industrial-insulation/fibertex-board-blanket/fibertex-820 - exhaust temp prior to water cooling is around 600deg C. The wire is to hold it in place.

I am sure you know Panuku does not own Westhaven any more, they are just the managers. It was transferred back to the council in some fishy deal to avoid tax. https://www.stuff.co.nz/auckland/110522994/auckland-council-plans-220m-tax-dodge