CarpeDiem

There's no legal requirement to carry flares in NZ as a recreational boater. YNZ require you to carry flares for racing because World Sailing requires adherence to SOLAS and COLREGS requires flares. Ultimately your sailing club can contract out of any YNZ regulation if they undertake the necessary assessment and determine what replaces it. Cat 3 still requires an inflated dinghy or a liferaft. Coastal Classic is a Cat 3- race. The minus is important. The night race to Kawau used to be a Cat4+ race (adding a inflated dinghy or liferaft). You could ask your club to remove the

Which one? I suspect this is a marketing mistake. EVDS are not recognised by the treaty so can't be a SOLAS certified replacement for flares.

Tommorrow hopefully. Been a Northerly all week and we're in cruise mode. We'll leave TGA tomorrow morning and see if we get there.

A second battery retails for around $1600. The 1103c batteries are ~35ah Lithium Manganese, so at $1600 it's expensive for what it is. So the motor is expensive no matter how you look at it. And adding that too a non electric ready cruising boat you have the added expense of charging, presumably overnight so your dinghy is ready for use the following day. My Yamaha 3hp 2-stroke cost $1150 in 2016. Since then it's had exactly zero $ spent on servicing and maybe $200 on fuel, oil and carbon credits if that. I can't find any numbers on the break even usage when compared to pet

This comes under the section preamble making it a suggestion. Skippers should consult their sailmaker and designer to arrive at the best sizes. The sizes given below are maximum suggested sizes only and should be followed only after due consultation. So get your sail maker/designer to document what your correct/optimal storm reefing point is before you change to the trysail. Re pyrotechnic flares, the requirement stems from COLREGS. You wouldn't be the first (or last) to suggest that the UN updates COLREGS to allow EVDS devices.

Engine driven fridges use an eutectic storage plate. The compressors are always an order of magnitude more powerful than the biggest 12v system. Thus they freeze holdover plates in under 20minutes when power is in abundance. Run the engine once in the morning, freezer/fridge are done for the day and if you're not careful you've frozen your beer. With electric you'd get rid of the engine driven compressor and switch to an electric compressor (another thing you need to factor in). If you stick with a holding plate, this requires you to get into the habit of leaving the fridge

She has had a Volvo 30hp engine since new. First one was a 30hp Volvo 2003. We replaced it with the 29hp D1-30. The propellor is also Volvo and we took that off the old saildrive system but Volvo signed off on it being the correct size for the boat/engine. Wow, only 10hp? That surprises me. Thanks - food for thought.

We were told to over spec the generator so it was never running at full output? It was described as a range extender and battery charger. I could see it only being used a few times a year. However, if we had gone down that path we'd also have removed the Lpg and gone full electric cooking and water heating so it would of been a bit more than just a range extender on long cruises. 20kw genny was matched to a 15kw motor. Lwl is 10m. Weight is 5200kg. We cruise at 6.2knots which is 2200rpm. If we take the engine to ~2800rpm we hit Hull speed at ~7.1knots. At that point we have 30

Thanks wheels, that's the missing information I needed. I will take the stabiliser back and swap it for a biocide.

Lots of good information thanks. Re the pricing, my D1-30 Volvo was $20k. It was a drop in replacement including saildrive. The electric set up was going to be $30k for parts and we had unknown labour and building costs to modify cabinets and make custom mounts etc, electrician costs were extra. It was recommended we go to a shaft drive which required Hull modifications. I didn't see it happening for less than $40k when all was said and done. So it was $20k more. In diesel/maintenance costs that is probably around 10yrs projected. If done at todays prices it's 20 years but I accept t

I am interested to know how this technology has progressed and how it compares realistically now. When we replaced our Volvo 29hp 2 years ago, the cost of batteries/motor and the most efficient diesel generator was more than a replacement engine and we still needed to buy a sail drive. The generators came in on paper a good few percentage points more efficient than the new engine which I liked. But unless we committed to being a full time race boat out of and back to marina power only and made sure we never raced on a day with light winds that we'd need to retire, and find ourselves

A shock dose of what? I got some of this, but it's not a biocide. It's seems to just be for treating diesel in storage. I am just conscious that all of the diesel in my tank is over 6 months old. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/diesel-fuel-stabiliser Prevents fuel from going stale when not used for up to 12 months Prevents gum, sediments and polymer formations in the fuel 2.5 times more economical than current fuel stabilisers Stabilises fuel quality for improved economy and performance Extends the life of fuel injectors, pumps and diesel catal

What's the recommendation with Diesel Stabilisation on yachts? We generally put in 20L every 2-4 months. Which gives us about 30L in the tank. But after CC (October) we put in 60L at Russell and have not added any since. Thanks

Solenoid energizing coils don't take an enormous amount, I suggest looking at the model of solenoid and working backwards from there. These are rated at 50A there's no way it be that. I have one of these mounted in the engine bay to start a 29hp Volvo if the magic black box ever fails.

Vhf antenna with a basic splitter. Just using a cheap as 4 speaker Supercheap Auto stereo. Maybe try connecting your vhf antenna cable directly to the stereo? If that works replace your splitter.

Cat 3 has always been every 2 years. I can't imagine Cat 2 would of been more but never had Cat 2.

Depending on access (and how much mess you want to make) I have succeeded at breaking expanding foam away with a high powered water blaster. A bit like the way drains get unblocked. I can supply popcorn and beer

Get a "Carbon Activated Air Filter" from Burnsco and put it on the hose that goes outside. Better still get rid of the holding tank, the toilet, all that stinky plumbing, those two hull fittings and instead put in a composting toilet

After the Auckland Tauranga race we've taken some leave and have 9 days to get back to Auckland. Would like to spend 2-3 maybe 4 days getting up to Great Barrier. Have heard the Mercs are spectacular. Thoughts on places to stop please?

It's just like any boundary/obstruction in our normal slow racing. The boat closest to the obstruction is entitled to room to tack, the other boat can choose to tack or go behind them. Rule 21 iirc??!? And yes when normal slow racing you can still use this to your advantage. Just FYI, the normal slow rules are upwind only and boat calling for room-to-tack must be close-hauled. But for AC they have modified it to include downwind. The obstruction can also be a 3rd boat on Starboard - making for some fun

Definitely if and when it's viable and cost effective. But that if is a pretty big if, and the when could be a long time and cost-effective is very subjective. Some thoughts/ramblings... They are years and years and years away from having a full link up for remote places. Just because you can see a cluster from the middle of the pacific doesn't mean it can see an uplink station or even another station to bounce through. There will not be any ground link lasers in the south pacific cause - you know - there is no ground. The Antenna's will need to be quite sophisticated and th

You can go much smaller than 12mm but you are going to be limited by the size and working load of your clutch. At the highend you can do end-to-end splicing of sk99. I did a 4 to 5 to 6 to 8 to 10 so we had 10 at the clutch and 4mm up most of the mast. The 4mm is 3000kg breaking load - which is rediculous unless you regularly hoist medium sized sedans up your rig. NB: I recommend getting this professionally done if it is even remotely possible that you'd hoist a person up the mast on it. SK99 is going to give you the best performance but at the highest price point. Vectra

Can you get stray current corrosion from other boats if you're not connected to shore power and don't have a DC system? Or are you saying that if you're not connected to Shore power then any stray current corrosion is due to your DC system. I understood that you had to be either connected to the shore power, and/OR have a faulty DC system...

If you're plugged into the Marina then you're 50% of the cause I have a Ref Electrode I am happy to loan out - but sounds like you're well past that point...

So I thought this would be a fairly easy thing to Google-Fu - turns out my fu isn't. If I am running the engine at 1800rpm in neutral am I using less, or the same amount of fuel that I would be if the prop is engaged? If the answer is less then it must stand that I use more fuel When the alternator is outputting 100amps; than When the alternator is outputting 5 amps Which is really getting to the root of my question, which is, does my alternator use up available kW if the engine is running anyway, or is the kW already there and just disappearing as heat/sound. I w