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  1. kiwi grip being water/acrylic paint,should soften with meths. Dont envoy you at all. 2 pot maybe acetone?? Hit it with a heavy industrial water blaster??
  2. They are not expensive. Acrylic Creations is who I use. Search this site, plenty of info already here.
  3. Any recommendations for a one step acrylic window bonding agent ? I used sika on my last boat, It was a 3 step process and the 3 different components cost twice as much as the two new windows . It was also a pain in the ass process and the boat had a toxic stink for about 6 months . there are no mechanical fastenings so it needs to be primarily a bonding agent with waterproof properties
  4. I just made a box shaped shower dome using 5mm acrylic. Following research the whole thing is glued up using superglue. No problem.
  5. Stepping Out is getting a bit of mould from a lack of ventilation. With the heater now fitted, I want to be able to close the companionway but still get some ventilation through it. I'm proposing to cut a window into the upper washboard, fit it with 4.5mm acrylic sheet rebated into the ply on the inner and outer surface (so, two sheets of 4.5mm with an airgap between them). The outer sheet will have ventilation holes (about 25mm diameter) across the bottom of the sheet, the inner will have vents at the top. There is approx 6mm airgap between the sheets. All corners radiused to red
  6. This is a useful reference on the web https://www.permabond.com/resource-center/bonding-acrylic-industrial-adhesive/
  7. I believe you can make an effective glue by "melting down" some of the acrylic waste (trimmings and shavings) with acetone.
  8. Thanks to Crew member lateral, I got a piece of 10mm acrylic that looks like it would hold back the Apocalypse, and is large enough to replace the entire upper board, which it will now do. I want to glue a lap onto the bottom of the sheet so that it overlaps the bottom washboard. I've cut a strip of the acrylic and routered its edges ready to glue on, but then I thought "what with?" I figure cyno-acrylate, any other guesses or knowledgeable comments?
  9. Yeah. So is the Captain. Its been sitting to one side for about 6 months while I procrastinated over desiging and making a fancy aluminium and acrylic enclosure with vents and fans and blue LEDs and all the bollocks. Then I saw the Systeema box at the Warehouse for $4.95. More progress in 30 minutes than in six months.
  10. Redesign. Single sheet, angled smaller drillings like described and shown above, rebate half depth of the washboard, window sheet on the outside, chamfer the edge so its flush at the junction between ply and acrylic. Still fix it using MS35. Meesaged you. Cheers
  11. Yeah, sorry, forgot to add the budget constraint... My budget for acrylic on this is about $50. The rest all happens in my workshop.
  12. Take out your washboards, take them to Acrylic Creations, and tell them to copy the washboards in tinted acrylic. They will put in a vent as well if you ask...
  13. Oh OK. So the divider on the inside makes it two windows instead of one, even though it's one piece of acrylic/glass. I had interpreted window as the single piece of glass covering. That's OK then, panic over
  14. I use Acrylic Creations. Great service great price: Acrylic Creations Ltd acrylic@callplus.net.nz 09 526 4021 Heaps on here about this topic already. See https://crew.org.nz/forum/index.php?/search/&q=Acrylic &search_and_or=or
  15. Thanks - I’ll keep away from acetone. Regarding the primer, for the Quilosa ms35 I don’t think it needs a primer, but I was going to etch the acrylic with a kitchen scourer. Is the primer needed for the Butyl tape?
  16. The Turps comment was for " wet" adhesive. Which is usually recomended on many of the products for clean up. Acetone doesn't seem to hurt the Acrylic immediately. But I found that some acrylic had crazed in areas that I had also used either thinners or Acetone when I installed it. I had just assumed it may have been the solvent that caused the damage. That is simply an observation though.
  17. I would be removing potentially fragments of what I guess is rubber (butyl?) from the acrylic, and preparing the surface for adhesion to butyl tape, and Quilosa MS35. I was anticipating using acetone to clean up rubber fragments. Better to use turps? (Isn't turps a thinner? What thinner do you not recommend?)
  18. I do suggest the use or turps for cleanup. I have noticed any acrylic that has been wipped with Thinners seems to craze much earlier than acrylics that have not. Maybe it is coincidence, but I have always wondered if thinners may remove something from the Acrylic surface that causes UV to break it down faster. The issue of using the sticky tape stuff is the UV attacking the Adhesive over a long time and likely causing the tape to release eventually. The Sika products use a paint on stuff that is actually about stopping the UV from attacking the Sealant, not just better adhesion to the acr
  19. Whichever product you end up using, the key here is to make sure that there is sufficient thickness of bead between the acrylic and the cabin side. This gives the adhesive some ability to move with expansion when the temperature changes. I found the best way to do this was to use glazing tape, available in rolls from Glasscorp, Fit the window to this lining the inside of the cutout on the cabin side. This holds the window in place firmly - really firmly, and then fill the gap with the adhesive. Glasscorp also sell nozzles for the cartridges which can be rotated and bent through various angles,
  20. There are only two types of products that adhere to cast acrylic sheet. Silicon and MS Polymer. MS stands for Modified Silicon, but don't let that fool you into thinking it is Silicon mixed with other stuff. It is kind of like Synthetic Oil. Synth Oil comes from a high quality base stock of crude Oil, but there the similarities end. With the Silicon, they take the foundation Chemical Silane and then modifiy it to suit what they want to achieve. I do wish this post came up about a month back as I was hunting down a well priced but good product for a mate. The only products I ncould find were
  21. Used Dow Corning 795 on all my boats to date - including the launch with both Acrylic and Glass windows - easy to work with and never had an issue.
  22. Arbo 1096 from Arbosil is the absolute business. One component, sticks very strongly to acrylic (and is designed and tested for that purpose, not just for glass). Easy to work with, relatively easy to clean, not too thick so it's easy to squeeze out. Pretty much everyone uses it as the main product for boat windows in the UK. I've been trying hard to find it in NZ but I can't. If anyone tracks it down here then please let me know. It's not only a really good product but cheap too! Only about $13 for a big cartridge of it. If you need a decent quantity it might be worth ordering it from th
  23. I am fitting new acrylic windows and have some sealant which is Prosil 10 from Burnsco. Would this be suitable or would something like Dowsil 795 be better? I only want to do this job once!!! Cheers. IMG_1658.HEIC
  24. For two years, regardless of the brand ( but Altex no5 is good) At least two coats on all surfaces with one / two more on all leading and trailing areas. Fair out "missing, old antifoul" either wet and dry to a gentle fair or Prime and fill with an easily sanded fairing compound. (Dont use an epoxy filler in this case). Build thickness is just that... coarse rollers will put a lot on...but there is not a lot of point if there is large "valleys and peaks". Better to put three light coats on with an even build. Use an extension handle on your roller and get into a rhythm. Thi
  25. Steve Pope

    Dome

    I have one on Gwalarn, I have thought of having another made as it is 38 years old. Any acrylic supplier in NZ should be able o direct you to a local business that can make them to order. Apparently it isn't that hard, heat, a former, either male or female, several folk to help move the soft acylic, to the former. ( on a cotton sheet). hey presto, your dome.
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