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Showing results for '"Acrylic "'.
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Looked like the normal clear film plastic used in most canvas spray dodgers. ("Glass-like clarity in both a polycarbonate and impact resistant acrylic substrate "). Polycarb I was told is not that UV resistant? That from "everything acrylic" in Drury who said go a special UV resistant perspex. Only issue is its prone to scratching.
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Ok thanks for the ideas . I too have Perspex/acrylic washboards so have made ply ones in two parts because companion ways are below the shear line
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Thanks Tim. No hurry, no one can paint in this! Can't even sand!!!..rain, sun, rain, sun... Found it, smart marine have it $119 for 4lts. Its basically the same as kiwigrip? Uses a roller to bubble the surface as its super thick so 4lts doesn't go far. I think if we paint the deck with an acrylic then mask off a walkway but was looking to do the hole deck with the one paint. My dad used a paint called 'rhinocoat', no longer made unfortunately as he got years out of it and would have slapped that on.
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I used Don't Slip again on Pulse, but this time added the non slip spheres you'd use in two pot paint. The curved main beam surface is now really grippy, and I'm pleased with that. On the flat cockpit floor I've had problems with it bubbling off because it tends to stay wet. This time I used an acrylic under coat before the Don't Slip, and that too has worked well. I'll try and dig out the name of the undercoat I used...
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My thinking too. I should have asked what that guy used, was dark green and looked bloody good for the time he had it on. I'm sure he said it was acrylic paving paint.
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Timber (ply) deck glassed over. Has acrylic on her now but after 3 years a lot has come off.
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As a requirement for the Wineworks Cook Strait Race we need to obtain Category 3 Certification. As Halo had been previously been Cat 1 certified by previous owner for Round North island Race in 2010, I wasn't anticipating too much difficulty. However after reading the 157 pages of the YNZ Safety regulations and speaking with the Kim McMorran who does the certifications in Wellington, I realised there were a lot of details to attend to. Kim agreed to to the inspection on Wed 13 Sept and would need boat on the hard to inspect hull, rudder, etc. I made up this to do list: New Gra
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Ok, so on the recommendation of a few on couple threads on Crew.org, I got some Acrylic windows cut by the business recommended. I left specific instructions, including requesting "medium tint" - I typed it on a note. The business confirmed they understood my note. All good so far. So, the windows are cut, and I see that they were done in "Dark Tint". I inquired as to why I didn't get the tint I asked for, and was told you can only have Light or Dark tint. Would it have not been reasonable for the outfit to phone me and advise that my instructions ask for medium tint, but they only
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They are rebated which allows for a good solid bed of sealant . Previously when they were screwed as well - the pressure from the screws had squeezed the sealant bed too thin . Being acrylic windows it also caused pressure points from expansion and contraction which shortened the lifespan of the windows
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From experience, if the windows are acrylic then you need to calculate the amount of expansion/ contraction for their length and height and then ensure that the sealant bead is sufficient to allow for this without shearing.
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Hi replacing a mates yacht windows , the old perspecs and ply frame over type dating back to the 60s going to do flush fit no frames into the rebates , things I need are glass or acrylic contacts , the double sided rubber material ,and the type of calking used , I here Dow caulking 795 is the one and idears
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I will be interested in seeing the end result - make sure to post pics when they are in, or will have a look myself next time I am over your way. As an addendum to my previous post - I can get six tinted, radiused / rounded, acrylic windows in the 10mm thickness I want for significantly less than the cost of ONE alum or ss portlight. Unbelievable. It really is the way to go if you are on a budget.
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I "think" (I am far, far, far x 100 from an 'expert') that the Dow 795 can take days, if not a few weeks to fully 'set' in cold weather. That may explain why you could move it days later? I am planning on using Dow 795 to bed new acrylic windows - after looking at prices of new alum or ss ports! Sheesh! I can get a new windlass from KM for the cost of 4-6 fancy port lights!!! I will get the fancy ports when I can afford it - for now acrylic glued to the cabins sides with no frames will have to do. And the Dow 795 should be easy to remove when I do decide to go fancy - I have no idea about
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Nice looking hard dodger on small boat-difficult (impossible) task
nagy592 replied to nagy592's topic in MarineTalk
Well, I believe the glass is lot more permanent than acrylic (what I intended to install) so alternative way to observation is not quite necessary. Also a larger boat have more chance to provide full headroom under the dodger which make sense to extend it a bit further aft. I don't have full headroom under the boom either so the dodger is even lower. I've been on larger boat with hard dodger and I will never re-create the comfort what I experienced there (in terms of dodger height but of course it is true for the entire boat). I don't even try. 28" is really a funny size, probably the top of d -
Nope, not a problem, it actually helps IMO. But, for large, long windows, you need 2 or more people to make certain the windows are placed correctly and pressed into/onto the frames easily. Have plenty of rags and isopropal so you can clean up around the acrylic if you make a mess!
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.....The thickness of the tape is important. If you have long windows the expansion and contraction is quite high. It is best to create a "frit" with silicone based paint (Like exhaust paint) if the bond is exposed through the acrylic / poly-carbonate . Have a look at most modern cars , fixed windows and you will get the idea. This stops UV exposure on the tape / sealant interface. Mask all except the frit area, lightly abraid with 180, and spray. Goop by itself can work on fiberglass boats and smaller windows but is not a good idea on other materials and definitely not steel boats. Af
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Yep, Acrylic Creations | Acrylic fabrication specialists, Auckland for the windows, and QUILOSA MS35 from the Glue Guru on North Shore for the adhesive. You'll need to clean the frame with isopropol alcohol , both the ply side and the Acrylic side. The adhesive is strong and fast grab - easier if you can get someone to help you press them into the frames.
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Hi Rush - I deleted the UV strip. I was thinking for convenience (put it up Friday, drop it on Sunday evening....) I AM considering the elastomeric acrylic enamel paint trick as well, and Intend to test it on some similar fabric. example: Doyle also has a version: Do you guys have experience with these products?
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You can get the windows off Keith from acrylic solutions. He's a boat owner too.
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ok time to paint decks,what to use?anyone had any luck with acrylic paints and special roller? want to go to a grey,as beige/deck cream never seems to stay clean.Going over the top of a grp deck that has anti skid patches.thanks
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get a paper chart either buy it laminated or get it laminated at somewhere like warehouse stationery Laminatingze A5 $1.79 A4 $2.99 A3 $3.99 A2 $7.99 A1 $14.99 https://www.warehousestationery.co.nz/print-copy/print-copy-services/binding-laminating then cut to shape and put under acrylic sheet http://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/building_supplies/brackets_connectors/orca_panel_ace_acrylic_sheet_1200_x_600mm_clear_212883/
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The reason why I suggested Doming resin is that the surface does not easily scratch. Epoxy does. When I say scratch, it is minute surface scratching from just fingers and whatever you place on the table, and that dulls the surface over time. The Doming reason is more like Acrylic being scratch resistant. Norski here in Blenheim make it and I am pretty sure M10 stock the Norski products. Although it is a lot more expensive than buying from Norski I would expect. So you could try calling them or take a look and see if they have a website.
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Agree on the kiwi grip acrylic deck paint but the light grey that burnsco sells gets really hot underfoot. Because we've got so much cockpit floor area I get a tin of white and a tin of light grey and mix them together to lighten the colour. It still gets quite warm though but looks cleaner than using straight white.
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What product best to use to re bed a glass cabin window and deck prisms? The on the shelf sika products at chandleries are for acrylic windows and they told me to ring sika. Sika don't know what a deck prism is.
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You can buy vinyl paint in spray cans from places like M10, supercheap and any autoparts shop. etc. Never tried using it myself. Enamels are harder wearing and more water impervious. Marine and "non marine" make little difference. But don't go cheap. There are some really cheap "home handyman" paints from likes of Bunnings and they are cheap to be cheap. You find the pigments are pathetic and you need 4 coats to equal the coverage of 1 of a decent quality paint. Acrylics are not so good at high wear and don't clean quite so easily. But it depends on where you are using it. One important thing
