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If there is any doubt in your mind of its current structural integrity I would glue in solid wood floors, centres at official Twister plans dimensions, with arrased edges and coved floor/hull junction to ease transitions. . Feather floor ends to hull so as not to create stress riser. Glass over floor side to side in one piece glass, overlap the ends to hull. Carefull to not entrap air. Say, 440gm db @+-45° and 220gm Uni @0° (parallel to floor.) min 4layers, staggering edges. Smallest last. Peelply. Don't use too heavier glass as wont go over floor easily. Vacuum will do a nice job. Cove and

Going to use 45/45 Biaxial, with CSM on one side. And you are saying uni-directional too?

I suppose that depends if you are the marine biologist or the contractor....

Yes I used to own a Moonraker 17. It came with the Moonraker 17 decals on the sides so pretty sure it was legit.

Are they still trying to vacuum it up in the Bay? If so, how successful has this been?

Yes for gennakers they are a mare when they go wrong . It cannot be unclustered on the boat usually .

I am risk averse to furlers having a clusterfeck and what not. Furlers are great, but if they go wrong it is incredibly complicated to sort out.. To the point we took our headsail furler off so I can run hank on headsails. Short handed it is great. Nothing can go wrong. Just blow the halyard and get it on deck when you feel like it. Also means I have the right size sail for the conditions, rather than trying to get one head sail to work in out of range conditions. For the gennaker I am a real big fan of just blowing the tack. You need a 'blowing clip', like a witchard or talysika (spellin

Experienced skipper getting back into harbour racing on an MRX. Sadly all my past crew are now happy on other boats or retired. And I'm not on Facebook for all the crew finders. The Squadron series is every 2nd Saturday afternoon starting May 11. Our racing is usually at a deceptively relaxed level. Crew must be relatively athletic and comfortable racing on a boat without lifelines. Particularly looking for a keen bow person. There is only one kite and no furlers. Call or message Jono Gravit 0274 754 169 if you are interested.

My Dad went from a Finn to a Whiting 16 when we were kids. Great little boat and could take two young families in the cockpit. I recall a Moonraker 17. I think it came out late in the trailer yacht game and was never raced. By then the Young water ballast 5.7 and 6.7 and Farr 6000s dominated the small boat division. There was also a Micron 5 of a similar size.

Did you inadvertently have the strike tab pressed? Somehow seems to detract from cxredibility of statement....haha. Curious to others who have experienced this with top down?

I went to Lisa's talk at the Squadron. Quite worthwhile but not many od salts there which I was surprised I wasn't surprised about. She's never going to die wondering.... Some of the events on her round Antarctica's sounded a bit hairy.

My structural floor grid. (covered in peelply)

Left Brest Sunday week ago at 1500 passed Raz de Sein at 1900 and parked in Audierne at 2000. Basically spent the next week hanging out there and then in St Marine (Bénodet) mostly working remotely and taking a few hours with the kids (school hols) before scooting across to the Glennan islands yesterday arvo and back to st marine today. Bit of a blow coming through tonight/tomorrow and already it’s a bit rolly here in the marina.

As Frank inferred; The hull thickness and designed floor structural grid work in concert with the type of keel fixing. From a quick google; yours is GRP then it has an ENCAPSULATED keel. Wood Twisters would have decent floors and keel bolts. Holman must have decided to beef (hull thickness) the turn of bilge to keel to the point little was needed ITO floors. That was/were the "baffles" you removed. Tying the two sides of the keel faces would be nice, and you need support for sole so have at it using Psyche's ply saturation and tabbing. Hopefully you are using epoxy. 45/45

Done for an international reference frame.

As far as glass will be using 45/45 ibaxial 600 gsm with the chopped strand mat on one side.

Didn’t read your post thoroughly. As long as your glass layup conforms to the wood plus glass specification in terms of crossection you will be fine. But solid wood in that configuration will be stiffer for same dimension . (With the grain athwartship.)

I've tried the top down furling system when sailing alone but never felt really confident with it. I think the gennaker would have to be cut very flat. When they work the are great but when it goes wrong at night its hard to untangle. Also when the gennaker is furled and the bagged the torque line tends to wind up in tight loops which adds complications when re-hoisting. I note that most of single handed fleet has now gone back to standard bag launching or socks.

Because for a specific scantling (thickness) you would require approximately twice the thickness of ply to achieve the same stiffness. Comparable timber of course. All to do with +_90degree orientation of grain. This is only when the strength is in the floor, not in the composite, (timber and encapsulating laminate) where the timber is a non-compressible spacer. I have David Gerrs “Elements of boat strength” if you care to borrow it. I redid my athwartship floors when I replanked my boat. 120x75 virgin old growth Kauri, 1/4 sawn to vertical face. Tom McNaughtons scantlings. (Com

I would say that is 1.5oz cloth. I've got one that does similar performance which is 1.5 oz cloth. Don't think I've got the balls to take it to 60deg true in 12 knots (and it's not cut that flat, my one) but it can certainly beam reach, tight reach and deep reach very well in the same windspeeds. We've even used it like a chicken-chute deep-off in 25 gusting 30 ish (didn't last long though, my boat is not designed to plane, and to do so is 'bad luck' for the gear). Mine looks very similar (accept mine is black), narrow shoulders, relatively high tack, luff length not a lot greater th

I have never relied on a solenoid. Have always turned off at the bottle after every use.

I see both sides of this having been a" must be kero "man after witnessing two separate gas explosions on other boats while away cruising as a young guy. These days I do use gas however I always turn off at the bottle -and am possibly the only one i know who does , though a lot have a solenoid valve switch at the stove -so that should suffice. The real concern are those that put total faith in the little figaro sniffers, I had a job once that had me testing these units at various sites -lucky if 50% were accurately performing. It seems to me that the real issue here is the cost being char

Heres a story for you; on a previous boat the gas setup when i got it was a steel bottle hanging from a bungee in an unvented locker, the bottle was connected to a section of flaking copper pipe with garden hose and rusting hoseclips, the connection to the oven was with some unknown ancient rubber pipe and the Vanessa oven itself had no flame cutouts There was no solenoid or sniffer and apparently this was how it had been since 1967.... Not condoning it, I replaced it at the time with an Origo meths stove which was pretty good if not a bit smelly. But I agree there is a bit of a disconnect bet

Agree but surely an appliance that is not leaking, and functioning as designed, and has been running for years cannot be deemed "unsafe", I get the opinion issue...

Question re gas explosions on board, how many incidents have we had in the last 5 years, what about 20? It is exceedingly rare as I understand it which is testament to the previous standards but now installations are aging its a pretty fair expectation that some maintenance is due. There was an explosion at Pine Harbour in the early 2000's on a Marauder which was a result of boatbuilder screwing into a flexible hose IIRC, its exceedingly rare for the systems to just "fail" most explosions are related to user error. Also if you rely on a sniffer and solenoid then the "turn off gas at bottle" si