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Sorry about the strike-through but couldn't get it to turn off. I was particularly referring to top down furlers. I have never had a problem with the code 0 -so it's not the furlers fault. I sail a lot on my own and have never had a forestay furler. I agree that hanks are safe and easy. We also have a reefing blade and a reefing jib which gives heaps of easy change options.

https://www.yachtingnz.org.nz/news/anchor-watch-rule-ynz-welcomes-sensible-new-interpretation

I don't have a fuller, but my rig uses the one headsail from 0 to storm jib

I've learnt the hard way that some replacement parts are best kept as genuine or OEM... I think the impellor fits that category for me.

I'm not a fan of furlers. Had 3 occasions where they have stuck which can be tricky. Also had a sock jam at the top of the mast - even trickier. Don't get me started on in mast furlers they must be a disaster waiting to happen. As you say nothing beats letting the halyard go and tidying up afterwards. But I'm also well past sail changes on a pitching deck so have a furler and try to look after it really well.

Entry tonight is for SSANZ members only However, with the discount it’s a better deal to join then enter anyway

Victron

There’s your cue. And it has proof of service.Use only enough glass and ply to achieve support for what you have planned above. Use your db /csm for tabbing if you already have it. Pay particular attention to end grain saturation of ply and apply on cooling cycle part of day. Thin or heat resin for first coat. Just repeating the mantra of others above.😉

Entries open tonight at 1900hrs Last time it sold out in minutes, you will be able to buy a ticket from 7pm tonight which will allow you to complete your entry form later on the race portal. The link will only become live at this time, so you may need to refresh your browser You will need, a credit card, your name, email address, ph number, boat name and design. The ticket isn’t transferable however you will be able to swap out co-skipper or boat if you upgrade either https://www.ssanz.co.nz/nt.2025/ Entries are limited to 40 yachts, after this you will be able to join th

All that was there previously was a glassed in bilge water tank, itself made of glass. I am a neophyte when it comes to boat design, but with just a skimpy piece of construction tying that area together previously, I'd say the way the boat is built is already massively strong old school GRP boat building prior to the 1974 Oil Shock (mine is a '72 Twister built by John Tyler of Tyler boat works UK, who incidentally retired to NZ and is still alive, now in his 90's I would say) . Here is some detail of how the GRP versions were built that I was able to obtain via the 'Twister Association'

If there is any doubt in your mind of its current structural integrity I would glue in solid wood floors, centres at official Twister plans dimensions, with arrased edges and coved floor/hull junction to ease transitions. . Feather floor ends to hull so as not to create stress riser. Glass over floor side to side in one piece glass, overlap the ends to hull. Carefull to not entrap air. Say, 440gm db @+-45° and 220gm Uni @0° (parallel to floor.) min 4layers, staggering edges. Smallest last. Peelply. Don't use too heavier glass as wont go over floor easily. Vacuum will do a nice job. Cove and

Going to use 45/45 Biaxial, with CSM on one side. And you are saying uni-directional too?

I suppose that depends if you are the marine biologist or the contractor....

Yes I used to own a Moonraker 17. It came with the Moonraker 17 decals on the sides so pretty sure it was legit.

Are they still trying to vacuum it up in the Bay? If so, how successful has this been?

Yes for gennakers they are a mare when they go wrong . It cannot be unclustered on the boat usually .

I am risk averse to furlers having a clusterfeck and what not. Furlers are great, but if they go wrong it is incredibly complicated to sort out.. To the point we took our headsail furler off so I can run hank on headsails. Short handed it is great. Nothing can go wrong. Just blow the halyard and get it on deck when you feel like it. Also means I have the right size sail for the conditions, rather than trying to get one head sail to work in out of range conditions. For the gennaker I am a real big fan of just blowing the tack. You need a 'blowing clip', like a witchard or talysika (spellin

Experienced skipper getting back into harbour racing on an MRX. Sadly all my past crew are now happy on other boats or retired. And I'm not on Facebook for all the crew finders. The Squadron series is every 2nd Saturday afternoon starting May 11. Our racing is usually at a deceptively relaxed level. Crew must be relatively athletic and comfortable racing on a boat without lifelines. Particularly looking for a keen bow person. There is only one kite and no furlers. Call or message Jono Gravit 0274 754 169 if you are interested.

My Dad went from a Finn to a Whiting 16 when we were kids. Great little boat and could take two young families in the cockpit. I recall a Moonraker 17. I think it came out late in the trailer yacht game and was never raced. By then the Young water ballast 5.7 and 6.7 and Farr 6000s dominated the small boat division. There was also a Micron 5 of a similar size.

Did you inadvertently have the strike tab pressed? Somehow seems to detract from cxredibility of statement....haha. Curious to others who have experienced this with top down?

I went to Lisa's talk at the Squadron. Quite worthwhile but not many od salts there which I was surprised I wasn't surprised about. She's never going to die wondering.... Some of the events on her round Antarctica's sounded a bit hairy.

My structural floor grid. (covered in peelply)

Left Brest Sunday week ago at 1500 passed Raz de Sein at 1900 and parked in Audierne at 2000. Basically spent the next week hanging out there and then in St Marine (Bénodet) mostly working remotely and taking a few hours with the kids (school hols) before scooting across to the Glennan islands yesterday arvo and back to st marine today. Bit of a blow coming through tonight/tomorrow and already it’s a bit rolly here in the marina.

As Frank inferred; The hull thickness and designed floor structural grid work in concert with the type of keel fixing. From a quick google; yours is GRP then it has an ENCAPSULATED keel. Wood Twisters would have decent floors and keel bolts. Holman must have decided to beef (hull thickness) the turn of bilge to keel to the point little was needed ITO floors. That was/were the "baffles" you removed. Tying the two sides of the keel faces would be nice, and you need support for sole so have at it using Psyche's ply saturation and tabbing. Hopefully you are using epoxy. 45/45

Done for an international reference frame.