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Showing results for 'Acrylic'.
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Im looking at putting some new acrylic windows in shortly. I am planning on using 1.6mm VHB tape around the inside edge and MS35 to bond it. I have a few questions, Do I need to key the acrylic? should i use black out primer? How much product am I likely to use for two windows 2400x300mm? Cheers
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Keith Bekker - Acrylic Creations in Penrose. Fellow yachtie and a great guy.
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I too have been caught in similar wind strengths returning from the Islands, like them I was so close, the wind picking up all the time, (it peaked 12 hours ahead of the time it was forecast to arrive, and that we were trying to beat ) but the urge to get into the bay, hoping to catch the Customs before knock off meant we pushed on expecting to get relief as we closed with the shore. We were laid over for several minutes by a gust much stronger than we had anticipated, just had to let the sheets fly and even then the wind held her over, being a centreboarder we didn't have a lead mine 2 metres
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So I’m in the process of restoring Barbarians decks, and have come to the windows. I’m keen to try and preserve as much of the original character of the yacht I.e I’m not trying to make it all new. Have resealed the windows a couple of times over the last 20 years. The first time with some sika, didn’t last long till their were leaks, the 2nd time with mastic which was great but that sticky non hardening mastic is forever easing out and sticks like STABlanket. Those screws spaced every 70mm around the window don’t help, just 1 not right and water finds it’s way. Also restoring the aluminium
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Hi Replaced windows October 2018 Used VHB tape and Dow silicone. No screws and reasonably long windows all done on a marina in i day (Raven 31). Trip round the North Island over summer and no leaks whatsoever. Was warned against going too thick in the acrylic as the thermal mass and tendancy of material to pull away (tries to stay straight) can apparently cause an issue..
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Properly installed acrylic windows don't leak. Mechanical fasteners are no longer needed with modern modified silicon adhesives. In fact, its the lack of flexibility in the mechanical fasteners that CAUSE most of the leaks. There is quite a bit of difference in the thermal expansion rates of GRP and the acrylic materials, and the adhesion and flexibility of the correct adhesive is essential to a good result. Quilosa MS35 is awsome.
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i have some 4?mm black perspex/acrylic sandwiched between white painted 1mm? alloy sides some form of cladding i think jigsaws + files better than just perspex as it doesn't crack, great for little projects you could come round and cut those 2 sizes out of sheet off-cuts
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Keith Becker - Acrylic Creations in Penrose - and a fellow yachtie.
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If you are looking to spray your house, roof, fence or any large area using acrylic the airless is the only option. If you are spraying anti foul, epoxy tar or products like Interprotect the airless is the only option. For hull topsides ,2 pack applications ,enamels and smaller areas and stuff gravity feed spray guns with a compressor are the only option. Gun tip size is critical for best finish with both systems. A water trap for compressor spraying is essential. My professional painter does interior doors to a excellent finish using airless and enamel paint but he is a professional.
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Looked like the normal clear film plastic used in most canvas spray dodgers. ("Glass-like clarity in both a polycarbonate and impact resistant acrylic substrate "). Polycarb I was told is not that UV resistant? That from "everything acrylic" in Drury who said go a special UV resistant perspex. Only issue is its prone to scratching.
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Ok thanks for the ideas . I too have Perspex/acrylic washboards so have made ply ones in two parts because companion ways are below the shear line
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Tried 2 pot, a bloody nightmare years ago especially to get off again. Went to acrylic, worked well but a skating rink then flaked, like the 2 pot. Met a guy in the yard here who said he uses "paving" paint! I'm into trying new ideas but not sanding them off again. Anyone used this?
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Thanks Tim. No hurry, no one can paint in this! Can't even sand!!!..rain, sun, rain, sun... Found it, smart marine have it $119 for 4lts. Its basically the same as kiwigrip? Uses a roller to bubble the surface as its super thick so 4lts doesn't go far. I think if we paint the deck with an acrylic then mask off a walkway but was looking to do the hole deck with the one paint. My dad used a paint called 'rhinocoat', no longer made unfortunately as he got years out of it and would have slapped that on.
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I used Don't Slip again on Pulse, but this time added the non slip spheres you'd use in two pot paint. The curved main beam surface is now really grippy, and I'm pleased with that. On the flat cockpit floor I've had problems with it bubbling off because it tends to stay wet. This time I used an acrylic under coat before the Don't Slip, and that too has worked well. I'll try and dig out the name of the undercoat I used...
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My thinking too. I should have asked what that guy used, was dark green and looked bloody good for the time he had it on. I'm sure he said it was acrylic paving paint.
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Timber (ply) deck glassed over. Has acrylic on her now but after 3 years a lot has come off.
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Nice looking hard dodger on small boat-difficult (impossible) task
nagy592 replied to nagy592's topic in MarineTalk
Thanks, adhesion is 3M VHB (for acrylic, I have to check the number) unfortunately the specific tape was available only white and MS for seal. I tried this method one of my cabin window and works pretty well so far. The tape could be a little bit thicker, to absorb imperfections a bit better, but still about 80% surface in contact. -
As a requirement for the Wineworks Cook Strait Race we need to obtain Category 3 Certification. As Halo had been previously been Cat 1 certified by previous owner for Round North island Race in 2010, I wasn't anticipating too much difficulty. However after reading the 157 pages of the YNZ Safety regulations and speaking with the Kim McMorran who does the certifications in Wellington, I realised there were a lot of details to attend to. Kim agreed to to the inspection on Wed 13 Sept and would need boat on the hard to inspect hull, rudder, etc. I made up this to do list: New Gra
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Ok, so on the recommendation of a few on couple threads on Crew.org, I got some Acrylic windows cut by the business recommended. I left specific instructions, including requesting "medium tint" - I typed it on a note. The business confirmed they understood my note. All good so far. So, the windows are cut, and I see that they were done in "Dark Tint". I inquired as to why I didn't get the tint I asked for, and was told you can only have Light or Dark tint. Would it have not been reasonable for the outfit to phone me and advise that my instructions ask for medium tint, but they only
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They are rebated which allows for a good solid bed of sealant . Previously when they were screwed as well - the pressure from the screws had squeezed the sealant bed too thin . Being acrylic windows it also caused pressure points from expansion and contraction which shortened the lifespan of the windows
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From experience, if the windows are acrylic then you need to calculate the amount of expansion/ contraction for their length and height and then ensure that the sealant bead is sufficient to allow for this without shearing.
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Hi replacing a mates yacht windows , the old perspecs and ply frame over type dating back to the 60s going to do flush fit no frames into the rebates , things I need are glass or acrylic contacts , the double sided rubber material ,and the type of calking used , I here Dow caulking 795 is the one and idears
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I will be interested in seeing the end result - make sure to post pics when they are in, or will have a look myself next time I am over your way. As an addendum to my previous post - I can get six tinted, radiused / rounded, acrylic windows in the 10mm thickness I want for significantly less than the cost of ONE alum or ss portlight. Unbelievable. It really is the way to go if you are on a budget.
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I "think" (I am far, far, far x 100 from an 'expert') that the Dow 795 can take days, if not a few weeks to fully 'set' in cold weather. That may explain why you could move it days later? I am planning on using Dow 795 to bed new acrylic windows - after looking at prices of new alum or ss ports! Sheesh! I can get a new windlass from KM for the cost of 4-6 fancy port lights!!! I will get the fancy ports when I can afford it - for now acrylic glued to the cabins sides with no frames will have to do. And the Dow 795 should be easy to remove when I do decide to go fancy - I have no idea about
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Can also use mulford plastics behind Silvia park for the acrylic, but they'll only supply square/rectangular panels that you then have to get into shape yourself. Cuts easily enough with a jigsaw and tidy's up with a sander though.
