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Showing results for '"Acrylic "'.
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Thanks - I’ll keep away from acetone. Regarding the primer, for the Quilosa ms35 I don’t think it needs a primer, but I was going to etch the acrylic with a kitchen scourer. Is the primer needed for the Butyl tape?
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The Turps comment was for " wet" adhesive. Which is usually recomended on many of the products for clean up. Acetone doesn't seem to hurt the Acrylic immediately. But I found that some acrylic had crazed in areas that I had also used either thinners or Acetone when I installed it. I had just assumed it may have been the solvent that caused the damage. That is simply an observation though.
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I do suggest the use or turps for cleanup. I have noticed any acrylic that has been wipped with Thinners seems to craze much earlier than acrylics that have not. Maybe it is coincidence, but I have always wondered if thinners may remove something from the Acrylic surface that causes UV to break it down faster. The issue of using the sticky tape stuff is the UV attacking the Adhesive over a long time and likely causing the tape to release eventually. The Sika products use a paint on stuff that is actually about stopping the UV from attacking the Sealant, not just better adhesion to the acr
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Whichever product you end up using, the key here is to make sure that there is sufficient thickness of bead between the acrylic and the cabin side. This gives the adhesive some ability to move with expansion when the temperature changes. I found the best way to do this was to use glazing tape, available in rolls from Glasscorp, Fit the window to this lining the inside of the cutout on the cabin side. This holds the window in place firmly - really firmly, and then fill the gap with the adhesive. Glasscorp also sell nozzles for the cartridges which can be rotated and bent through various angles,
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There are only two types of products that adhere to cast acrylic sheet. Silicon and MS Polymer. MS stands for Modified Silicon, but don't let that fool you into thinking it is Silicon mixed with other stuff. It is kind of like Synthetic Oil. Synth Oil comes from a high quality base stock of crude Oil, but there the similarities end. With the Silicon, they take the foundation Chemical Silane and then modifiy it to suit what they want to achieve. I do wish this post came up about a month back as I was hunting down a well priced but good product for a mate. The only products I ncould find were
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Used Dow Corning 795 on all my boats to date - including the launch with both Acrylic and Glass windows - easy to work with and never had an issue.
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Arbo 1096 from Arbosil is the absolute business. One component, sticks very strongly to acrylic (and is designed and tested for that purpose, not just for glass). Easy to work with, relatively easy to clean, not too thick so it's easy to squeeze out. Pretty much everyone uses it as the main product for boat windows in the UK. I've been trying hard to find it in NZ but I can't. If anyone tracks it down here then please let me know. It's not only a really good product but cheap too! Only about $13 for a big cartridge of it. If you need a decent quantity it might be worth ordering it from th
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For two years, regardless of the brand ( but Altex no5 is good) At least two coats on all surfaces with one / two more on all leading and trailing areas. Fair out "missing, old antifoul" either wet and dry to a gentle fair or Prime and fill with an easily sanded fairing compound. (Dont use an epoxy filler in this case). Build thickness is just that... coarse rollers will put a lot on...but there is not a lot of point if there is large "valleys and peaks". Better to put three light coats on with an even build. Use an extension handle on your roller and get into a rhythm. Thi
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I have one on Gwalarn, I have thought of having another made as it is 38 years old. Any acrylic supplier in NZ should be able o direct you to a local business that can make them to order. Apparently it isn't that hard, heat, a former, either male or female, several folk to help move the soft acylic, to the former. ( on a cotton sheet). hey presto, your dome.
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The screws besides being a source of leaks also are stress points when the hull flexes and will often end up starting cracks in the acrylic -if you have a good bed of sealant there is no need for the screws although a couple to keep the window in place and lined up while the sealant cures can be a good idea - screws to be removed in and filled in after .
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Ok. So is there a way to identify if the tint is comparable with the acrylic or not, it should say on the packaging? Put tint on after windows are fitted or prior to?
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If your going to tint the Acrylic just make sure the film is compatible otherwise your going to end up in a world of hurt!! Bubbling and pealing within a very short space of time. My thought's is tinted window's are better due to the privacy and heat reduction benefits. (I'm a window tinter by trade) and would add a film on my own boat in the future. Glass is so so much easier though.
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Slightly off topic but still window related, peoples views on tint? Is it a must or just personal preference? My original windows were clear so I got clear acrylic but could get some stick on tint and apply before fitting the windows I guess?
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The is no need for the bolts/Screws, they are what eventually leaks. You could fill the holes in the frame, stick the windows in, then the frames on top for purely cosmetic reasons if you want. Modern adhesives are stronger and more flexible than the initial fixing and sealing system. Most modern boats have windows fixed without mechanical fastenings now, and the joint is usually stronger than the acrylic or the GRP of the boat.
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I was recently told durepox from resene is the go not sure of cost but you probably won’t need a lot. i have used acrylic enamel on plywood boats and it seemed to work pretty well and hard wearing
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The advice for keying the acrylic is to give the edge - about 15mm in, a rub with a kitchen scourer- that was from Cambrian plastics in Henderson, who supplied the panels. They cut them nicely.
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Glasscorp sell the best adhesive for this - it's a Dow Corning product and I think it Dow Corning 925. I did my Lotus windows with it and no screws necessary. Glasscorp also sell glazing tape, which is magic stuff for making the job easier. You have about12mm overlap with the windows and the frames., put the glazing tape around the inside of the frame and simply press the acrylic onto the tape. Sticks really well. Then you can take your time filling the void with the adhesive - which of course if the messy bit! It's definitely worth masking both the frames and the outside of the acrylic.
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Im looking at putting some new acrylic windows in shortly. I am planning on using 1.6mm VHB tape around the inside edge and MS35 to bond it. I have a few questions, Do I need to key the acrylic? should i use black out primer? How much product am I likely to use for two windows 2400x300mm? Cheers
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Keith Bekker - Acrylic Creations in Penrose. Fellow yachtie and a great guy.
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So I’m in the process of restoring Barbarians decks, and have come to the windows. I’m keen to try and preserve as much of the original character of the yacht I.e I’m not trying to make it all new. Have resealed the windows a couple of times over the last 20 years. The first time with some sika, didn’t last long till their were leaks, the 2nd time with mastic which was great but that sticky non hardening mastic is forever easing out and sticks like STABlanket. Those screws spaced every 70mm around the window don’t help, just 1 not right and water finds it’s way. Also restoring the aluminium
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Hi Replaced windows October 2018 Used VHB tape and Dow silicone. No screws and reasonably long windows all done on a marina in i day (Raven 31). Trip round the North Island over summer and no leaks whatsoever. Was warned against going too thick in the acrylic as the thermal mass and tendancy of material to pull away (tries to stay straight) can apparently cause an issue..
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Properly installed acrylic windows don't leak. Mechanical fasteners are no longer needed with modern modified silicon adhesives. In fact, its the lack of flexibility in the mechanical fasteners that CAUSE most of the leaks. There is quite a bit of difference in the thermal expansion rates of GRP and the acrylic materials, and the adhesion and flexibility of the correct adhesive is essential to a good result. Quilosa MS35 is awsome.
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i have some 4?mm black perspex/acrylic sandwiched between white painted 1mm? alloy sides some form of cladding i think jigsaws + files better than just perspex as it doesn't crack, great for little projects you could come round and cut those 2 sizes out of sheet off-cuts
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Keith Becker - Acrylic Creations in Penrose - and a fellow yachtie.
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If you are looking to spray your house, roof, fence or any large area using acrylic the airless is the only option. If you are spraying anti foul, epoxy tar or products like Interprotect the airless is the only option. For hull topsides ,2 pack applications ,enamels and smaller areas and stuff gravity feed spray guns with a compressor are the only option. Gun tip size is critical for best finish with both systems. A water trap for compressor spraying is essential. My professional painter does interior doors to a excellent finish using airless and enamel paint but he is a professional.
